I was fortunate enough last night to gather with a group of good friends at my house and share a line-up of very enjoyable wines, good food, and lively conversation. The focus of our evening were the wines of Central Otago, New Zealand, specifically Pinot Noir. We got things going with some bubbles and Pinot friendly cheese, crackers, fruit, and charcuterie followed by an impressive lamb, mushroom, and radicchio risotto.
As is the resplendent norm for this group, our focus is just as much centered on learning as it is the shear enjoyment of wine. Hence, that is why we gathered on this evening to share these fairly obscure wines from the 45th parallel on other side of the planet. One note for these wines and future tastings is that these wines all needed time to open up and we could have used a handful of decanters to remedy the situation.
Getting things started right:
NV Dosnon & Lepage Champagne Recolte Noire Brut***
Elegant and fine without any apparent dosage that kept this wine dry and crisp both on the nose and palate. Biscuit with undertones of fruit on the nose. Very nice.
NV Quartz Reef Methode Traditionnelle**
Distinctly different from the Champagne. Richer and rounder with apples and a creamier texture.
Flight One:
2006 Olssens Pinot Noir Jackson Barry Vineyard***
Classic Pinot Noir nose with that slightly earthy and mushroom core surrounded by pretty red fruit and a hint of smoke. The finish was a little abrupt at first but this wine, like the others, really opened up and developed into something quite nice.
2006 Rippon Pinot Noir***
Much more of a "California" style wine with ripe red raspberries and plums up front and followed by a hint of baking spice. The palate was medium weight with chalky tannins and a streak of acidity that went down like a laser beam.
Flight Two:
2008 Felton Road Pinot Noir***
This one took a long time to open up but after an hour in glass it really showed it's stuff. Black plum and savory game on the nose while the tannins softened with air and the high acid begged for food.
2008 Felton Road Pinot Noir Calvert Vineyard***
Much quicker to open up. The nose possessed beautiful deep rich fruit, spice, and leather. On the mouth there were plums and much more integrated tannins.
Flight Three:
2002 Jean-Michel Gaunoix Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes***
Our only blind bottle, brought in as a ringer. Classic and easily singled out as clearly not from Central Otago. Very nice and quite elegant. Leather, dried cherries, and spice.
2008 Mud House Pinot Noir*
Not especially interesting and somewhat simple in comparison to the other wines tonight. There was something initially off-putting about the nose but that blew off with air time. Maraschino cherries.
Finishing strong:
2005 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco***
Very young but already showing fairly well and providing plenty of enjoyment. Bright red strawberries and cherries engulfed in floral violets on the nose. The medium to light weight palate showed a youthful tannic structure but still had a soft fruit profile that reminded me of milk chocolate covered cherries.
Food for thought:
-The Dosnon & Lepage Champagne was a fantastic way to start things off and showed the clear distinction between new world sparklers and the class and refined wines made in Champagne.
-This was a wonderful opportunity to taste a group of wines from an up and coming region of the world that is still under the radar (only one bottle found in any wine store in town). They find a nice balance between "new world" and "old world" expressions of Pinot Noir. If you are someone that enjoys classic Pinot Noir fruit without being overwhelmed by ripeness, bright acidity, and nicely balanced wines, I recommend doing your homework and getting your hands on some Pinot Noirs from the Central Otago region of New Zealand. For me, these wines are much more interesting than the wines from the much more common and easy to find, Marlborough region.
-Drinking the Barbaresco was a bitter-sweet moment for me. It was very nice and as always, a real treat to enjoy the Nebbiolo grape expressing it's beauty. But, we truly robbed the cradle on the wine and it only gave us a glimpse of what it will become. Very tasty stuff, but the lesson to learn here is BE PATIENT!
0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!
Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.
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