Italy 2010 - Travel Journal - Part V

May 24, 2009

Relaxing start with no where to go until our 10:30am tour of Einaudi’s winery located across the auto court from our room. I went for a quick 2.5 mile run, this time in the opposite direction. Up the hill south of the hotel and back, arousing the attention of every single dog along the way. The Einaudi tour was short and sweet with a Croatian man working in the winery who, being from Split, claimed to know Goran Ivanisevic. No tasting, but that was ok, I’m sure we’ll open something later by the pool.

Time to check out the village of Serralunga d’Alba and we are finally starting to get a handle of things here without getting lost each time we leave the hotel. Lunch at Centro Storico. Much more simple menu and relaxed atmosphere, the waiter speaks impeccable English and offered a great recommendation for a Verdicchio from Marche to have with our meal. Chris has a fresh zucchini, tomato, and asparagi salad. Dad and I have a Caprese with wonderfully creamy bufala. Dad has a pasta pomodoro, Chris and I have ravioli con burro e salvia that was packed with great flavor despite its simple appearance. Didn’t take advantage this visit, but they did have a ridiculous selection of Champagnes.

A quick walk around in the 90 degree heat and we hurried back to our air conditioned car for a trip over to the village of Barolo. Another medieval town to wind around and marvel at the charm of this area. Makes me think about how honest this place and its people are, not trying to be anyone or anything they aren’t, just doing what they’ve always done and loving both its simplicity and sophistication.

Time to go back to the pool and cool off. Relaxing with a book (A Hedonist in the Cellar, Adventures in Wine by Jan McInerney), a little swim, and some good Barolo (’00 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Nei Cannubi*** and ’04 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Coste Grimaldi***). Such a perfect way to spend an afternoon.

Dinner is at Le Rose dei Vini just outside Serralunga d’Alba. Great restaurant for our last night here in Piedmonte. Situated with a view as good as we’ve seen here, and we’ve seen a lot. Looking onto Castiglione Falletto out on the newly renovated covered terrace we all decided on the tasting menu which ended up being 6 courses for 25 euro per person. After a glass of Prosecco to get things started we had prosciutto and pane fritto, veal carpaccio – thinly sliced with summer truffles shaved on top, torta d’asparagi, stewed veal with a contorno of steamed carrots, a trio of panna cotta –chocolate, classic and hazelnut, and finally a tray of piccoli dolci misti. With a great wine list, rich in older vintage Barolo and Barbaresco, we selected a ’98 Azelia Barolo** for 47 euro. Slightly more fruit forward with silky tannins (as we’ve learned is common of this vintage) that made this still youthful wine quite easy to drink.

Unfortunately, our time here is up, but I am again determined to return sooner rather than later. A grappa to settle the dust nicely and then tomorrow morning its time to say goodbye to Piedmonte and hello to Lombardia and the beautiful town of Bellagio.

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.