Friday, November 12, 2010

A Big Day During Harvest

October 25, 2010


Taking a much needed break during a crazy harvest I was able to join the usual band of borrachos for one of our favorite pilgrimages, to the winery facilities of Au Bon Climat and Qupe. Jim Clendenen, Bob Lindquist, and Jim Adelman were all there to host us with their spectacular generosity and graciously boisterous way of making us feel welcome. Upon our arrival we were greeted by our hosts and a feeling that they were as excited for us to be there as we were, if that is possible. After our initial conversations as friends excited to be back in one another’s company, we were off to begin our big day with a journey through the extensive barrel rooms.

From the barrel:

Au Bon Climat Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 (first pick) - huge acidity but will clearly be a nice component to the future final blend.
Au Bon Climat Sanford and Benedict Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 - bright acidity but much more in balance.
Clendenen Family Vineyards Le Bon Climat Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 - showing much more flesh and softness.
Au Bon Climat Anderson Valley, Elke Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 - wonderfully tropical and already very enjoyable. +
Qupe Bien Nacido Reserve Chardonnay 2009 - much more rich than the others.
Qupe Roussanne 2009 - bright notes of candied citrus.
Au Bon Climat Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 (Pommard 103) - dark notes of black spicy fruit.
Au Bon Climat Los Alamos Pinot Noir 2009 - brighter red fruit profile.
Au Bon Climat Talley-Rosemary Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 - brambly and well balanced.
Au Bon Climat Sanford and Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 - very very nice wine that showed class and complexity. +
Vita Nova Sangiovese 2001 - a change of pace to have this from bottle, showed leather and classic Sangio profile.
Vita Nova Acronitis 2002 - a Bordeaux blend that didn’t blow me away.
Qupe La Purisima Vineyard Grenache 2009 - nice wine that will be blended into the Los Olivos Cuvee.
Qupe Sawyer-Lindquist Vineyard Grenache 2009 - quite nice, showing elegant fruit.
Qupe Sawyer-Lindquist Vineyard Syrah 2009 - dark and tightly wound.


As the lunch bell rang we made our hurried move to the kitchen to see what feast had been prepared at the hands of our intrepid host, Jim Clendenen. As usual, we were not disappointed. The Grub: Basil Butter Noodles, Beef Bourgogne with a homemade horseradish and green onion sauce, Roasted Eggplant with goat cheese, Lima beans with pesto and sesame, Frittata of Zucchini and choate chili’s, and fresh tomatoes. With so much being grown by Jim himself, these meals are as good as anything you’ll ever eat at a restaurant or kitchen table anywhere in the world. As the food and wine flowed our conversations grew and evolved from our usual talk of food, wine, and sports into discussions of politics, travel, and of course, food, wine, and sports.

The lineup of Lunch Wines:

Qupe Bien Nacido Cuvee 2009 (50% Chardonnay/50% Viognier) - nice way to start, fresh but rich.
Qupe Marsanne 1993 - I’ve never had a Marsanne even close to this old and I thought it was remarkable. Wonderful balance still with a rich nuttiness. +
Au Bon Climat Hildegard 2006 (55% Pinot Gris/40% Pinot Blanc/5% Aligote) - nice
Au Bon Climat Hildegard 2004 - nicer
Au Bon Climat Hildegard 2001 - nicer still
Au Bon Climat Hildegard 1999 - fantastic wine of wonderful complexity. +
Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Pinot Noir 2007 - bright and fresh fruit
Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Pinot Noir 2004 - lighter body than I expected with the heat of this particular vintage. Very nice. +
Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Pinot Noir 2003 - Not as interesting as the previous two.
Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Pinot Noir 2001 - Showed very well, still showing some youthful exuberance.
Qupe Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Select Syrah 2006 - deep, dark, and dense.
Qupe Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Select Syrah 2005 - relaxing a little bit and showing more.
Qupe Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Select Syrah 2002 - great evolution to this point, really nice wine. +
Qupe Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Select Syrah 2001 - wow, what a wine! This is what local Syrah is capable of being. Exciting! +
Clendenen Family Vineyards Nebbiolo 2002 - after some discussion of Barolo, this little vertical arrived at the table. More forward than the others showing more fruit up front.
Clendenen Family Vineyards Nebbiolo 2001 - tightly wound and needs to either be opened the day before drinking or wait another 5 years on this wine.
Clendenen Family Vineyards Nebbiolo 2003 - very nice varietal character and showing well now with the clear potential to get better with age. +
Clendenen Family Vineyards La Cuna 2005 (90% Syrah/10% Viognier) - great old world elegance while still clearly being from a local producer and made of local fruit. Very enjoyable. +

Another epic journey to one of my very favorite wine destinations. These visits are what most any wine lover in the world dreams about and I am so very thankful to be fortunate enough to be a part of these trips. Special thanks goes out to our hosts and our organizer.

Cheers!

+ = Wine of particular note

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.