A Big Day During Harvest

October 25, 2010


Taking a much needed break during a crazy harvest I was able to join the usual band of borrachos for one of our favorite pilgrimages, to the winery facilities of Au Bon Climat and Qupe. Jim Clendenen, Bob Lindquist, and Jim Adelman were all there to host us with their spectacular generosity and graciously boisterous way of making us feel welcome. Upon our arrival we were greeted by our hosts and a feeling that they were as excited for us to be there as we were, if that is possible. After our initial conversations as friends excited to be back in one another’s company, we were off to begin our big day with a journey through the extensive barrel rooms.

From the barrel:

Au Bon Climat Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 (first pick) - huge acidity but will clearly be a nice component to the future final blend.
Au Bon Climat Sanford and Benedict Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 - bright acidity but much more in balance.
Clendenen Family Vineyards Le Bon Climat Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 - showing much more flesh and softness.
Au Bon Climat Anderson Valley, Elke Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 - wonderfully tropical and already very enjoyable. +
Qupe Bien Nacido Reserve Chardonnay 2009 - much more rich than the others.
Qupe Roussanne 2009 - bright notes of candied citrus.
Au Bon Climat Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 (Pommard 103) - dark notes of black spicy fruit.
Au Bon Climat Los Alamos Pinot Noir 2009 - brighter red fruit profile.
Au Bon Climat Talley-Rosemary Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 - brambly and well balanced.
Au Bon Climat Sanford and Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 - very very nice wine that showed class and complexity. +
Vita Nova Sangiovese 2001 - a change of pace to have this from bottle, showed leather and classic Sangio profile.
Vita Nova Acronitis 2002 - a Bordeaux blend that didn’t blow me away.
Qupe La Purisima Vineyard Grenache 2009 - nice wine that will be blended into the Los Olivos Cuvee.
Qupe Sawyer-Lindquist Vineyard Grenache 2009 - quite nice, showing elegant fruit.
Qupe Sawyer-Lindquist Vineyard Syrah 2009 - dark and tightly wound.


As the lunch bell rang we made our hurried move to the kitchen to see what feast had been prepared at the hands of our intrepid host, Jim Clendenen. As usual, we were not disappointed. The Grub: Basil Butter Noodles, Beef Bourgogne with a homemade horseradish and green onion sauce, Roasted Eggplant with goat cheese, Lima beans with pesto and sesame, Frittata of Zucchini and choate chili’s, and fresh tomatoes. With so much being grown by Jim himself, these meals are as good as anything you’ll ever eat at a restaurant or kitchen table anywhere in the world. As the food and wine flowed our conversations grew and evolved from our usual talk of food, wine, and sports into discussions of politics, travel, and of course, food, wine, and sports.

The lineup of Lunch Wines:

Qupe Bien Nacido Cuvee 2009 (50% Chardonnay/50% Viognier) - nice way to start, fresh but rich.

Qupe Marsanne 1993 - I’ve never had a Marsanne even close to this old and I thought it was remarkable. Wonderful balance still with a rich nuttiness. +
Au Bon Climat Hildegard 2006 (55% Pinot Gris/40% Pinot Blanc/5% Aligote) - nice
Au Bon Climat Hildegard 2004 - nicer
Au Bon Climat Hildegard 2001 - nicer still
Au Bon Climat Hildegard 1999 - fantastic wine of wonderful complexity. +
Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Pinot Noir 2007 - bright and fresh fruit
Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Pinot Noir 2004 - lighter body than I expected with the heat of this particular vintage. Very nice. +
Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Pinot Noir 2003 - Not as interesting as the previous two.
Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Pinot Noir 2001 - Showed very well, still showing some youthful exuberance.
Qupe Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Select Syrah 2006 - deep, dark, and dense.
Qupe Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Select Syrah 2005 - relaxing a little bit and showing more.
Qupe Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Select Syrah 2002 - great evolution to this point, really nice wine. +
Qupe Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Select Syrah 2001 - wow, what a wine! This is what local Syrah is capable of being. Exciting! +
Clendenen Family Vineyards Nebbiolo 2002 - after some discussion of Barolo, this little vertical arrived at the table. More forward than the others showing more fruit up front.
Clendenen Family Vineyards Nebbiolo 2001 - tightly wound and needs to either be opened the day before drinking or wait another 5 years on this wine.
Clendenen Family Vineyards Nebbiolo 2003 - very nice varietal character and showing well now with the clear potential to get better with age. +
Clendenen Family Vineyards La Cuna 2005 (90% Syrah/10% Viognier) - great old world elegance while still clearly being from a local producer and made of local fruit. Very enjoyable. +

Another epic journey to one of my very favorite wine destinations. These visits are what most any wine lover in the world dreams about and I am so very thankful to be fortunate enough to be a part of these trips. Special thanks goes out to our hosts and our organizer.

Cheers!

+ = Wine of particular note

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Big (Early) Birthday Weekend

September 10-12, 2010

As a milestone birthday began to approach, I decided that I wanted to fully embrace and celebrate it’s arrival. This celebration was a month prior to the actual date of my birth, but only because of scheduling with some of my very favorite people, my family. Along with my parents, brother and his wife the festivities took place in one of the greatest cities that I know, San Francisco. In my opinion, San Francisco is rivaled by only the very best cities in the world for architecture, culture, character, and of course food and wine.
To be honest, I spent months planning the weekend and countless hours just thinking about the possibilities. Those that know me well, probably aren’t too surprised by that admission. But hey, this is a big birthday, what can I say?

After landing at SFO at noon on Friday, I was promptly picked up by my parents to head into the city and it was time to let the revelry begin. In my research for this weekend’s culinary explorations, I found a great little sushi restaurant in the New Fillmore neighborhood called, Maruya. After traversing through the busy city streets and extensive road construction, we arrived. We were randomly greeted to San Francisco by a friendly mustache clad police officer who teased and jokingly asked for a bribe of a free lunch for help in parking our car. After a few laughs we walked up the street to our lunch destination and came upon a much smaller than expected take out sushi spot. Luckily we were welcomed by the very friendly and hospitable owners of this tiny family owned restaurant of 45 years. They allowed us to eat in their phone-booth sized establishment and there we enjoyed unbelievably fresh fish of clean and precise flavors.

With delicious and healthy food in our bellies we were off to the Marin Headlands for some hiking and absolutely phenomenal views back at the city and Golden Gate Bridge. The weather was perfect with the sun prevailing in a battle over the typical summer fog. After a great time and plenty of fresh air, we went back to the hotel to check into our room at the Hilton Union Square and meet up with my brother who was just arriving.

After settling into our rooms and relaxing for a brief period, it was time to get ready for a night out. The evening began with a visit to the Mark Hopkins Hotel on Nob Hill and their famous restaurant, ‘Top of the Mark’, for a pre-dinner drink and a chance to soak up the fantastic views of San Francisco. In some ways this felt like the official ’kick-off’ for my birthday celebration, with my family doing what we love to do, spending time together in beautiful places while enjoying great food and wine.

Dinner was at the Michelin starred restaurant of Piedmontese inspiration, Acquerello. Elegant and intimate this was a place of great class and the menu was a gourmet expression of classic Piedmontese cuisine. Though I did have a problem with one of the two bottles that I brought to be enjoyed, we did have a pretty amazing experience here. We began with a Grower Champagne from Egly-Ouriet that was fruit driven and quite nice. This was enjoyed with a couple amuse bouche that consisted of arancini with truffle oil and a bruschetta of mushrooms. For my first course I decided on the Chopped beef tartare with Parmesan cream, quail egg and truffle drizzle. This was a wonderful way to begin and something that I enjoyed multiple times on my last trip to Piedmont. The next wine opened was something that I was most looking forward to, a bottle of Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato. This wine is one of great interest to me and has a growing presence in my cellar due to it’s quality, rarity, and explosive aromatics. Onto my second course, Saffron malloreddus tossed in a rich Abruzzese ragu' of lamb and beef. This was an absolutely delicious pasta dish that had a new pasta shape for me that was similar to gnocchi with ridges. For my third course I went with the Stuffed, grilled pork chop over polenta of toasted farro, roasted plums and pancetta wrapped radicchio Trevisano. Our last wine of the night was a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino from Poggio Antico that I picked up while living in Rome and have been anxiously waiting it’s opening in the 8 years since. For dessert I chose the Valrhona dark chocolate ganache with hucklerries and mascarpone. Overall this was a fantastic night of exquisite Italian food and exceptional wines.

I Vini:

Egly-Ouriet Vignes de Vrigny Blanc de Noir N.V. ***
Very enjoyable and fruity without losing the class that I’ve come to expect with good grower Champagne. Toasty fruit all over this one with nice acidity to cleanse and prime the palate.

Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 1999 ****
This wine evolved from the moment the cork was pulled until the last drop was consumed, 3 hours later. Beyond it’s beautiful red raspberry color, the nose was richly aromatic and perfumed. Along with the palate the wine gained weight with air, starting with crushed rose pedals and sweet wild fennel, to a slightly darker anise seed, and finishing with licorice root, truffle, and tar. The palate was elegant and tannins persistent but not overpowering and showed juicy red plums. This wine was amazing but will reward those that have the fortitude to hold onto a couple bottles for at least the next 10 years. Wow!

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino 1997 ***
Wonderfully dark in color with classic leather and tar on the nose. Plum skin and licorice on the palate of this more elegant than expected Brunello.

Onto day two of this birthday extravaganza. We start off the day with a classic hole-in-the-wall greasy spoon diner called Dottie’s True Blue Café. With a 45 minute wait outside we are greeted by some local flavor and finally make it inside. This was a great start to the day and after a hearty breakfast from this tiny but lively spot, we were ready to go. We then visited Golden Gate park for some much needed exercise for a stroll around the beautiful park. After an attempt to have lunch at the exceedingly crowded Ferry Building we settled in the 80 year old Irish Pub, Harrington's for some lunch and to watch the Notre Dame game. Harrington's was a great spot to grab a couple pints and have some lunch, despite the outcome of the game, we forged on. Next we hopped onto a historic street car and headed down the Embarcadero to do a little more exploring before heading back to the hotel.

Saturday’s dinner was at a restaurant that I’ve been wanting to visit for a long time, Chez Panisse. Before heading across the Bay Bridge, we shared a fantastic bottle of bubbles, my first ever bottle of Krug. After a great start to the evening we drove over to Berkeley for dinner.

We arrived a little early to our reservation and after waiting upstairs in the boisterous café we were seated in the comfortable and elegant dining room downstairs. Our experienced waiter started us off with an amouse bouche of olives and fresh bread with a small glass of Spanish Cava as an aperitif before moving into our spectacular meal and wines. The first course was the delicate and wonderful Cucumber carpaccio with cured salmon and herb salad that had a refreshing quality that went surprisingly well with the J.J. Prum Riesling. Next came the Chanterelle mushroom lasagne, which was rustic yet very refined and a great match to the Rioja. I could have eaten a couple more portions of this dish. Third was the Grilled Paine Farm squab with rosemary, pancetta, shell beans, romano beans, and sweet corn fritters. It was savory tender goodness that is rarely matched and I can honestly say is probably the best fowl that I’ve ever had. It’s rusticity played quite well with the Chateauneuf du Pape. Lastly came something sweet, Frog Hollow Farm plum crostata with wild fennel ice cream. We took our time and savored every delicious morsel of food and drop of wine, while sharing each other’s company and rich conversation. This was honestly one of my favorite meals I’ve ever been lucky enough to enjoy in one of the best restaurants in the world. Simple, fresh, and elegant food prepared and served without compromise. Everything here was executed to the finest of detail without ever being pretentious or making you feel like you were anything but welcome and comfortable.

The Wines:

Krug Champagne Grand Cuvee Brut NV ***+
An elegant and classy bottle of wine. Drank as an aperitif but could have been even better with a little food to help cut the huge acidity. Bright nose with buttery brioche tones to round it out.
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnehur Auslese 2002 ****
Fantastic wine with wonderful richness of spiced apples, candied lime, and plenty of that sweet petrol nose that I look for so much in a wine like this. The palate was surprisingly light on it's feet while still giving mouth coating pleasure. This wine is only going to get better and better with age.
R. Lopez de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Vina Bosconia 1981 ****
Light ruby color with a Tawny Port like appearance. This was shockingly “youthful” in that there was still so much there and it’s evolution in the glass was remarkable. Bright red berries on top of savory teriyaki beef jerky and new leather that eventually showed fresh wild dill on the nose. The palate showed a chutney of tart cherries and cranberries, wonderfully bright acidity, while all being wrapped up in an elegantly silky mouthfeel. I want more!
Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Marie Beurrier 2000 ***+
Inky dark and enjoyably elegant in style. This was a big wine, don't get me wrong, but never heavy handed. The nose was rich with leather and spice while the palate showed dark berries and forest floor. The acidity was brighter than expected and gave the wine a slightly ethereal feel to it. Quite nice.
Sunday morning was spent walking around the sleepy neighborhood of Cow Hollow, eating a pastry on Marina Green, and then enjoying a hearty Italian lunch at a family favorite, Scoma's.  The time had come to head back to SFO because the festivities had reached their end.

Everything went to plan as well as could be expected while keeping to a feeling of something organic despite being organized. The one major missing piece was the absence of a special someone, my special someone. But, that couldn’t be helped and I know that there will be countless future milestones spent together. This was truly a special weekend that I will never forget. As always, endless thanks go to my loving family for all their love and generosity.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Wedding Bells

August 20th & 21st, 2010

Having the opportunity to celebrate and be a part of the nuptials of two close friends is something that doesn’t come around all that often in life. In this particular case, the celebration took place here in this spectacular place that we call home, Santa Barbara. The entire weekend was planned to the finest of detail by my good friends, Mike and Jen.

The festivities began (unofficially) with casual gatherings as early as Monday, but the focus of what I’d like to talk about is the “official” events of the weekend. Starting with Friday afternoon’s rehearsal at the enchanting courtyards of the Santa Barbara Historical Museum (site of the upcoming nuptials) we were greeted with smiling faces and bubbling beverages to kick off a weekend of shared celebration. After a walk through of our responsibilities and itinerary we were off to The Wine Cask for the rehearsal dinner.

Upon our arrival the food began to circulate and the wine began to flow. And, oh did it flow. Servers boasting a bevy of tasty flat breads were upon us while bottles of wine greeted us heartily. One could easily feel the fervent and positive energy of this group and get lost in the overwhelming spirit of adoration for the wonderful couple for which we were all gathered. When it was time sit down for our meals there was a selection of equally enticing gems from the menu, but I happen to be prepared for these moments of tough choices in life. I began with the Braised Kurobuto Pork Belly, followed by a hearty portion of short ribs, and finished with the Farmer’s Market fresh Cherry Cobbler.

Wines:
Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Quintessence de la Rive Droit du Serein 2007 ***
Domaine de Font-Sane Gigondas 2007 **+
Palmina Arneis 2009 ***
Palmina Malvasia Bianca 2009 ***
Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills 2008 **+
Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Mt. Carmel 2008 ***

After dinner, a small group of us convened at the best man’s suite for a night cap. Granted, this night cap included over 6 bottles of wine…But alas, it was a well selected and developed list of wines to properly commemorate the occasion. Despite a warning, one member of the group almost lost an eye in a slight mishap due to an extremely high level of atmospheric pressure, but luckily we all escaped without injury.

Wines:
Sorelle Bronca Prosecco (1.5L) N.V. ***
Vosne Romanee, Jean Grivot, 'Les Beux Monts' 1er 2006 ***
Chambolle-Musigny, Perrot-Minot, "Les Charmes" 2000 **
Vougeot, Fourrier, "Les Petits Vougeot" 2006 ***
Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Saturday = The Big Day

After some quite time in the morning that consisted of a massive breakfast burrito, a trip to the pool, and finally some quality time on the balcony to enjoy the view and feel the warmth of the sun, it was time to get ready for the events of the day. Keeping our relaxed pace, we all got ready and after a quick glass of Champagne were off to start taking pictures.

The photo process was extremely low key and fitting of the groom’s laid back attitude. A lovely Grower Champagne from Diebolt-Vallois was with us every step of the way and certainly gave our band of misfit’s the fortitude necessary to complete our afternoon responsibilities.

The beautiful ceremony was situated in an intimate courtyard and directed towards a lilac draped trellis. Personal and to the point, the ceremony was fantastic, with Mike and Jen both doing their part to commence their lives together as husband and wife. Followed by a photo session for the family and entire wedding party, it was time to head to the adjacent courtyard and reception.

Wonderfully arranged, this space quickly has become one of my favorite spots in Santa Barbara and is certainly atop the list of best places to have a wedding reception in town. Rustic and elegant at the same time, how much more Santa Barbara can you get? Upon our lively introduction to the group came the big moment of the newly wed couple’s first dance.

Dinner began with a great family style dish of fresh Heirloom Tomatoes with Baby Arugula, Sweet Corn, and Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano. Next came a Grilled Tenderloin of Beef with pan Roasted Mushrooms and Fresh Thyme. As Contorni there were Green Beans and Red Onion Slivers with Marcona Almonds along with Crispy Parmesan Polenta with Kale Chips (delicious!).

Wines:

Diebolt-Vallois, Champagne, Blanc de Blanc NV ***+

Luxe, Domaine Ste Michelle, Washington 2004 **

Palmina Arneis 2009 ***

Palmina Pinot Grigio 2009 **+

Jaffurs Grenache 2007 **+

Antica, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2005

Though it was difficult to pull myself away and after an absolutely wonderful time-eating, drinking, dancing, and celebrating-it was time to head to the after party where a large group of us kept the party going until all hours of the night.

I could go into greater detail about the days leading up to the wedding and those that immediately followed, but I hope that this little peak into a very special weekend for two very important people in my life was both fun to read and warmed your heart… I know that it sure makes me appreciate life and the gifts that surrounds me, everyday.

Cheers!

 

0 Stars - No rating

1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest

2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest

3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out

4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed

5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Looking at Summer through Rose Colored Glasses

August 3, 2010


Being that it is summer time, it was only fitting to get together with a good size group of friends for a night out on a beautiful patio for some great food and as much Rose wine as possible. At my good friend Dave's house, we sat out under the pergola for a fantastic dinner that took each of us to a place where one could simply sit back, relax, and enjoy the world around us. The four hour meal began with a caprese salad of heirloom tomatoes and creamy bufala mozzarella, triple cream brie and fresh French bread, summer salad of mixed greens and yellow beets, succulent barbequed chicken, roasted fingerling potatoes, fresh green and yellow string beans, and finished off with a delicious berry tart a la mode.

Having a tasting of Roses is something of an anomaly. Rarely is a group gathered together to celebrate the simplicity and deliciousness that is great Rose wine. Being a wine of uncomplicated charm, the vinous discussions tend to be brief and in the direction of a simple affirmation of the pleasurability of the contents of your glass. The variations may seem slight, but there is whole wide world of pink wines out there. Though, there were a couple Americans that kicked things off and finished the flood of pink, our focus was on those hailing from France, Italy, and Spain.

(Just a few)

That's a lot of pink:

Eola-Amity, Oregon 2009**-
Beckman Grenache 2005**-
Les Domaniers, Provence 2008**-
Les Domaniers, Provence 2009**-
Saint Andre de Figuiere, Provence 2009**
Chateau du Rouet, Burgundy 2009**
Chateau de Pampelonne, Provence 2009**
Villa des Anges, Languedoc 2009**
Domaine Tempier, Bandol 2008**+
La Manarine, Cotes du Rhone 2009**
Domaine de Pontasainte, Rhone 2006**-
R. Lopez de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Vina Tondonia, Rioja 1998***
Domaine de Fontasante Gris de Gris 2006**-
Rioja Rosado 2009**-
Terlano, Lagrein, Alto Adige 2009**
Jaffurs Rose of Syrah, 2008**+
Vino Sapien Rose of Pinot, 2009**-


Alvear Montilla-Moriles Pedro Ximénez de Añada N.V.*** (A beautify sherry enjoyed with dessert)
Dominique Lafon, Chardonnay 2007**+
Dominique Lafon, Chardonnay 2008**+


Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard 2006***+
E. Guigal Hermitage 2003***+

With the recycling bins full and after reaching a fully satiated state, the night came to a close. The final bottles of rouge were plucked from a temptingly accessible and prodigious cellar and were a superb exclamation point to a great night.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Cellar Celebration Evokes Thoughts of Vivaldi

July 26, 2010
Monday night brought the celebration of my good friend Mike's new cellar and the appropriate consumption of more than one bottle from his newly christened cellar. That is what friends are for, right?

Wines:

Epicuro Vermentino Lazio IGT 2007**
Simple, refreshing, and nice. Was bright but showed a little bit of smoky and toasty character as it warmed in the glass. Nice way to start.

Fontanafredda Piemonte Barbera Briccotondo 2008**-
Nice acidity, as expected. But the aromas and flavor were a little muted. Off bottle? I have another bottle, so we'll see. From other notes on this wine, I am expecting a better showing, next time.

Chateau Rayas Cotes du Rhone Chateau Fonsalette Reserve 2000****
This wine developed and changed almost every time I brought it to my eager nose and mouth, conjuring the feeling that drinking this wine was like experiencing the four seasons. Spring: Upon opening, it was fresh and bursting with energy. Full of life, the wine literally jumped out of the glass with fragrances of new saddle leather, bright red cherries, sweet violets, and wild fennel. Summer: The wine began to transition and unwind, growing in intensity and showing macerated ripe cherries, star anise, milk chocolate, and something reminiscent to aroma of hosing off pavement on a hot summer afternoon. Fall: Deeper and darker this wine continued to develop into black cherries, hints of licorice, roasted herbs, and smoked meat. Winter: Luckily for us, the winter for this wine was not something bleak or dismal, rather it brought black tones of tar, black currants, melted licorice, dark chocolate, and mint. The evolution of this wine was a truly special experience and an unbelievably enjoyable ride.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Riesling the Whole World Round

July 20, 2010
This was a meeting of the Bocca tasting group to taste through a variety of Rieslings from around the world. It was a fantastic experience to taste through 7 different Rieslings from different parts of the world, all at one time. With a lineup like this, we really only had one choice in where to do this, Meun Fan Thai. Not only is it a great place to get some tasty Thai food, but it was a wonderful partner for our selected wines. Riesling with Satay, Egg Rolls, Sizzling Platter, Drunken Noodle, Spicy Eggplant, and an array of Curries, come on! That's perfection!

Weinkarte:

Pegasus Bay Riesling, Waipara, New Zealand 2006***
The nose was chalky with a slight hint of rubberband while the palate showed spiced apples and a laser beam of acidity. For the price, this was a fantastic bottle of wine.

Trimbach Riesling, Alsace, France 2007**
This wine showed cheese rind and a hint on mint on the nose with a very bright palate of citrus and raw quince. The gripping acid mellowed over time, but begged for food.

Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Dry, Finger Lakes, NY 2006**
Initially showed some nice intensity but with time the nose became muted and the once rich mouth went slightly thin. Part of me thinks that this may just be a sytlistic issue and the wine was more on the subtle and elegant side. But, it was fairly middle of the pack when it came to the other wines on the table.

Bergstrom Riesling Dr. Bergstrom, Willamette Valley, OR 2007**-
The aromas of soap from Bed Bath and Beyond didn't exactly conjure the feeling of Riesling, but the palate had spicy apple and helped maintain some varietal character.

Leitz Rudesheimer Berg Schossberg Spatlese, Rheingau, Germany 2004***
By far the most Riesling of the Rieslings, tonight. This had a fullness in the body and of the class that I was hoping for. It would have been interesting to see how this would have stood up to others of similar pedigree. A rich nose of baked apple and undertones of smoke and pine led into a mouth filling and elegant wine that had a finish that went on and on.

Reinhold Haart Goldtropfchen Spatlese, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany 2008**
I never would have guessed that this was a Spatlese, but with time grew on me. This bright wine had a nose of key lime and mouth of citrus and lychee.

Chateau Montelena Riesling Potter Valley, CA 2007**-
There was an oaky buttery character to this wine that made it initially difficult to believe that it was a Riesling. This didn't have a ton of varietal character, but showed a cheesy and doughy note along with something that reminded me of walking into someone's grandmother's house.

Prager Gruner Veltliner Auslese Achleiten, Wachau, Austria 2000
I think that this bottle was flawed, even though none of us could place what the flaw was. The nose burned of gasoline and the palate was sour. Really too bad, this could have been an interesting wine to finish with.

Because of my love of Riesling, this was a great experience. I continue to learn and appreciate more about this particular varietal and the variety of it's expression depending on how it is made and from where. One thing that I walk away from this tasting with, is the feeling that though nice wines can be made from all over the world with this varietal, your safest bet to find truly great Rieslings are still from Germany and Austria. The pedigree and class of the Rieslings from these two countries stand head and shoulders above any other region, in my honest opinion. I do not want to discount the quality of wines made in other regions, because there are some wonderful expressions of Riesling to be found, but for my taste, the difference is clear. I hope that you enjoyed this and maybe learned something along the way. I know that I did!

Prost!

Food for thought:
The following is an explanation of the German system for levels of sweetness in Riesling. The different Prädikat designations differ in terms of the required must weight, the sugar content of the grape juice, and the level required is dependent on grape variety and wine-growing region and is defined in terms of the Oechsle scale. In fact the must weight is seen as a rough indicator of quality (and price). The Prädikat system has its origin at Schloss Johannisberg in Rheingau, where the first Spätlese was produced in 1775 where wines received different colour seals based on their must weight.

The different Prädikat designations used are as followed, in order of increasing sugar levels in the must:

Kabinett - fully ripened light wines from the main harvest, typically semi-sweet with crisp acidity, but can be dry if designated so.

Spätlese - meaning "late harvest" and typically semi-sweet, often (but not always) sweeter and fruitier than Kabinett. Spätlese can be a relatively full-bodied dry wine if designated so. While Spätlese means late harvest the wine is not as sweet as a dessert wine.

Auslese - meaning "select harvest" and made from selected very ripe bunches or grapes, typically semi-sweet or sweet, sometimes with some noble rot character.

Beerenauslese - meaning "select berry harvest" and made from individually selected overripe grapes often affected by noble rot, making rich sweet dessert wine.

Eiswein - "ice wine" and made from grapes that have been naturally frozen on the vine, making a very concentrated wine. Must reach at least the same level of sugar content in the must as a Beerenauslese. The most classic Eiswein style is to use only grapes that are not affected by noble rot.

Trockenbeerenauslese - meaning "select dry berry harvest" or "dry berry selection" and made from selected overripe shrivelled grapes often affected by noble rot making extremely rich sweet wines.


0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

A Birthday at Manresa

July 10, 2010


Another joyous occasion brought my family getting together to celebrate my brother's birthday. Before going to the renowned restaurant of Manresa, the day was spent by going for a walk around Los Gatos doing a little shopping, lunch at California Cafe, and a relaxing afternoon enjoying each other's company.

Lunch Wine:
Poderi Aldo Conterno Chardonnay Bussiador 2001***
Golden color this richly aromatic wine boasted dried pineapple and a touch of coconut on the nose. The palate was full of perfumed tropical fruits and minerality, but maintained nice balance and good acidity. This wine is big in everyway, but shows wonderful layers and provides considerable pleasure to the senses.

Pre-dinner Wine:
Philipponnat Champagne Royal Reserve NV**+
Citrus notes prevailed with a baseline of toast and yeasty character. The mouth was full from the 8g/l dosage and greater percentage of Pinot Meunier used. Was a great way to start things off for the evening, but probably needed a little food to go with it.

The menu was filled with playful elegance and sophistication. There was a concerted effort to focus on freshness and the bounty of local produce. The table began with a couple amuse bouche to awaken the senses. First was a shooter of chilled strawberry soup and followed by an egg shell filled with rich and creamy goodness consisting of the yoke toped with a custard sporting a little spice. I followed those starters with a garden green soup, stone ground mustard cream and multicolored purees. This had a great presentation of select flora that were enveloped tableside by the contents of a black kettle teeming with a healthful and deliciously creamy green liquid. That was followed with a preparation of lightly breaded local abalone with savory mushrooms. It was time to return to the land once again with the Beef bavette roasted in its own fat, savory morel mushrooms on a smooth base of pureed potatoes. As a table we then shared a selection of eight artisan cheeses, ranging in firmness, pungency and locale. It is always a great treat to enjoy a variety of fromage from around the world. For dessert I was served a miniature flowerpot filled with a Lemon Verbena cheesecake below a toasty crust, fresh berries, and a top soil of creme fraiche and edible flower petals.

Dinner Wines:
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose 2008***+
I stand by what I have said previously about this wine, this is the best rose in the world. Completely dry but full of fruit and plenty of nuance. Strawberries and melons flow over the top of wonderful minerality and refreshing acidity. So, so good.

Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Keefer Vineyard 2005***+
Showing that classic KB nose of hugely perfumed aromatics that make it so difficult to take your nose out of the glass. Bright red fruit throughout, showing red raspberries, rhubarb, and rainier cherries. Lovely mouthfeel that completely coated without being heavy.

Kosta Browne Pinot Noir 4-Barrel 2004***+
A wonderful follow up to the Keefer, this wine was deeper and darker and an appropriate step in the right direction in terms of weight. I believe that both the vintage and style of the 4-Barrel bottling were to thank for this progression. There was blackberry, black cherry, and soy on this wine. The richness was a great match with the red meat and cheese that followed.

Spending time with my family to celebrate a birthday and doing exactly what we all enjoy most was an ideal way to spend a weekend. Manresa was a wonderful experience, from the fantastic service, imaginative food, great wine service, comfortable feel, and kitchen tour. This was yet another truly memorable meal and in of itself, reason to celebrate.

Cheers!


0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Il Pezzo Mancante

July 3, 2010

For this entry I travelled to a far-off place and new destination for this blog, Minnesota. Though slightly obscure, this place known as the Bread and Butter State provided me with an abundance of something rarely found on this earth, happiness and comfort. I guess one could say that it is debatable at best that it was the actual place that provided such feelings, rather than from one specific and undeniable source. But alas, that discussion is for another time. My reason for making this journey was not one driven by my typically epicurean motivations, but while there, I was fortunate enough to enjoy an evening of fine food and wine.

On this particular evening, along with the company of a certain someone that (if I had to guess) is going to be a regular character in many of my future adventures, we found ourselves in Minneapolis for dinner at Cafe/Bar Lurcat. In a newly remodeled building located between an attractive park and the impressive Basilica of Saint Mary's, this hip restaurant draws in a local crowd looking for something modern and sophisticated. Our enthusiastic waiter guided us through the evening with a seemingly unflappable love for his current situation.

The meal began with a Julienned Salad of Apple and Manchego in a chive oil dressing and also an order of the Duck Prosciutto with Goat Cheese Crostini and an apple and pickled onion accoutrement. Those were followed by an Asian styled Udon noodle and orange chicken dish with plenty of spice and an order of Roasted Pork Loin with a red wine reduction sauce, blue cheese and figs. The wine had to be Burgundy. Needless to say, after my recent trip to San Francisco, I am a budding fan of the wines from this region of France.

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin 2005***
Began with bright red fruit similar to tart cranberry and plenty of saddle leather and dusty earth. I should have gone with my gut on this one and decanted it, but it was interesting to see this develop throughout the evening. The wine lacked a little bit of the mid-palate richness of some of the other Red Burgs that I've had recently, but really filled out as it was open. By the last glass it was deeper and darker, showing frutta di bosco, baking spice, and black cherry.

In my lifelong search for la dolce vita, this was one of the truly extraordinary meals of my life. The food was nice and the wine enjoyable, but for it's significance, there is a much more serendipitous and resplendent explanation...

Thank you all for reading.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating

1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Three Deliciously Decadent Days

June 25-27, 2010

Friday
With the big weekend finally here for my good friend Mike's bachelor party we did what any self respecting hedonist of epicurean pursuits would do, go to San Francisco. After a slightly longer than expected drive, we arrived at the Hilton Union Square to check-in and get the festivities started. Before heading out for the evening we started things off on the right foot with a couple palate teasers to shake off the rust and ready us for the night ahead.

Sancerre Domaine Vacheron Rose 2008**
Classic bone-dry French rose, most likely Pinot Noir.

Vino Sapien Wine Company Grandaddy Grenache 2006**
Rich and ripe. A huge leap forward after the rose.

Walking into the hipster sushi fusion eatery of Mas Sake, your senses are attacked by the LA night club inspired red glow, flashy waitress', and loud dance music. But I will say one thing, the food was surprisingly good. We had a nice melange of eclectic sushi rolls delivered to our table; the fish was fresh, rolls were creative but not overdone, and price was right! (Thanks to a friendly connection).

GH Mumm & Cie Grand Cru Mumm de Cramant Blanc de Blancs NV***
Great verve on this 100% Chardonnay sparkler, went extremely well with the freshness of the fish.

Palmina Malvasia Bianca 2006**+
Wonderfully ripe lychee notes on the nose. The palate was mouth coating and a nice pairing with the slightly spicier food items.

Tablas Creek Roussanne 2005
Flawed: Volatile Acidity

Qupe Roussane Bien Nacido Hillside Select 2005**+
A bunch of new oak on this wine, but extremely well balanced and wonderfully aromatic.

Slipping out from dinner and back into our limo we are taken to a street corner sporting a mysterious line of people seemingly waiting for nothing. There was an unmarked door that they all seemed intent to penetrate, but why? Luckily, our fearless leader for the evening not only knew the answer to that question but was armed with the appropriate password and secret handshake to grant our entry. Under hushed tones and behind disguised doors leading to clandestine passageways and rooms we were hidden away for a trip back into the days of the speakeasy. Soon, it was time to leave the silence and turn the volume of this night up to a fever pitch. From hitting a Michael Jackson tribute band show to commemorate the anniversary of his death, to late night club activities, we went after it on the first night and took a big bite!

Saturday
After a leisurely start we took advantage of the absolutely perfect weather and walked down to the Ferry Building where they were having their weekly farmer's market. Walking into to a cornucopia of this magnitude was fairly overwhelming but with our great abilities in such matters, we managed just fine. I decided to begin with a North African cheese and herb pie, followed by a stop for some Tasty Salted Pig Parts and a Salumi Cone from Boccalone Salumeria, local fresh soft cow's milk cheese and seeded bread, multiple fresh fruit samples along the way, a handful of sweetwater mini's and kusshi oysters from Hog Island, an extended visit to the wine merchant for a few refreshments and to catch the end of the US World Cup Soccer match, and then a second Salumi Cone for good measure. Our wine interlude:

Clos du Caillou Cotes du Rhone Rose 2009**
Typical dry Southern French Rose that softened with strawberries as it was open.

Donnhoff Estate Riesling 2007**
Pleasant and enjoyable, lacked the complexity of their vineyard designate classified bottlings, but still well made.

Luciano Landi Verdicchio Castelli de Jesi 2008**
Bright and crisp with an undertone of slightly more luscious stone fruits.

On our way back to the hotel we squeezed in a visit to the sky bar on the 39th floor of the Marriot Hotel for a cocktail and soak up the spectacular view of the city, looking towards the bay bridge. A short nap and then the group was ready for a big night at Michelin star restaurant Ame, in the St. Regis Hotel. Walking into a restaurant of this caliber while toting a case of wine can be a tricky maneuver, but with the right connection and a very friendly and talented Sommelier, it is much easier.

To begin, the chef sent out a fried oyster in an aioli that certainly awakened the senses and got dinner off on the right foot. Next came my first course which was, Sea Urchin Bruschetta with Lardo, Lemon and Sea Salt. This was an absolutely fantastic appetizer that was a true delight to eat. The savory lardo seemed to be melted over the rich and slightly sweet sea urchin, and all served on bite size toasted crostini. I followed that with the Crispy Soft Shell Crab on Potato Fondue with Bacon Chips, Maitake Mushrooms, Okra and Lemon Caper Beurre Blanc. The crab was lightly fried and with a spicy crunch, savory bacon and mushrooms, and finished with a refreshing and cleansing potato and lemon edge. Next came a special on this particular night, Rabbit Raviolo with farm fresh Peas and Carrots and shaved Pecorino cheese and Summer Truffle. The one large raviolo was stuffed with succulent rabbit and veggies cooked al-dente. Time for the house specialty, Broiled Sake Marinated Alaskan Black Cod and Shrimp Dumplings in Shiso Broth. Talk about melt in your mouth! Even though this is a fairly simple fish, the utter perfection of it's preparation made this a truly special dish. To finish I went with a warm Rhubarb Pie with Orange Flower Ice Cream. A little dolce was a requirement to appropriately cap this decadent evening of gastronomy.

The wines:

Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvee 732***
The nose showed baked Rainer Cherry and brioche. The palate stayed bright with nice fruit and a hint of richness.

Domaine Guy Amoit & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Premiere Cru Les Caillerets 2005 ***+
Intensely aromatic with wonderful layers on both the nose and the palate. The finish was persistent and pleased the palate for long after the initial taste. This is how Chardonnay should be.

Bouchard Pere & Fils Aloxe-Corton 2005***+
This wine took the longest to open up, but was very rewarding to those who had patience.

Calera Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard 2006***
Deeper and darker than it's French counterparts, but the fruit was at a great point of ripeness and well balanced.

Domaine Meo-Camuzet Bourgogne Freres & Souers 2005***
Elegant and classic in profile.

Hospice de Beaune Premiere Cru Cuvee Hughes et Louis Betault 2003***+
A touch more age helped give this wine an extra dimension of complexity that helped this wine stand out.

Domaine de Montille Beaune Premiere Cru Le Sizies 2003
Flawed: corked

Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils Premiere Cru Volnay Taillepiedes 2006****
Oh my! I was a huge fan of the fantastic fruit of this wine that showed straight out of the shoot. This was so amazing right away and as it opened up, started showing a deeper tone to it that made me want to see this bottle again in 5-10 years. My wine of the night.

Schubert Pinot Noir Marion's Vineyard, Wairapara, NZ 2007**+
Nice wine with a hugely different aroma and flavor profile than the other Pinot Noir on the table. Much brighter tones and herbal.

Bosquet des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 2005***
Very nice richness of fruit and leather on the nose. The palate was savory smoked fruit, meat, and black licorice.

Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Kanzler Vineyard 2007**+
Another huge variation of Pinot Noir from the Burgundies enjoyed before getting to this point. The fruit was much sweeter and almost candied. Great size and length to this wine.

Qupe Syrah Bien Nacido Hillside Select 2006***
Great way to finish the night. This wine drinks well now, but has the concentration to last another 10 years. Inky dark and pure.

Enjoying such a wonderful array of wines, being served five courses of magnificent gourmet cuisine, and with such professionalism and generosity, it is easy to loose yourself in the four hours of utter bliss. This was truly a special experience for reasons both because of and bigger than great food and wine.

Sunday
For a weekend like this, you can't finish with a fizzle, you need a bang! So, we walked down to Yank Sing for some mind blowing dim sum. Getting there was especially colorful on this particular day, because of the San Francisco Pride parade working it's way up Market Street. Despite the entertaining fervor taking place, we were on a mission for dim sum. Within ten minutes of sitting down at Yank Sing we had already embraced the idea of yes. Why say no to so many amazing opportunities of deliciousness? Sitting outside on a perfect day and being stuffed to the gills with the best dim sum in San Francisco was the only way that we could have finished this spectacular weekend of food, wine and all around good times. We had done all that we could do, it was time to hit the road and return home with our bellies a little more robust than when we arrived and our memories much more rich.

Thank you for reading, Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Summer Kickoff

June 22, 2010


Getting together for a casual night on the Mesa with good friends to kick off the beginning of Summer is as good of a reason as any to uncork some wine, right? If you are reading this, my guess is that you agree with me when I say that the answer to that question is obviously yes. We kept the food simple with a meat lovers pizza and hot wings from Mesa Pizza, managing to make it as unhealthy as we possibly could. Well, time to move past that decision and go onto the wine:

Jaffurs Rose 2009**
Saying that this wine has lively acid would be an understatement. It has that Terry Theise, enamel stripping acidity, that without the right food and served cold on a hot day could easily be over-whelming for some. The nose is showing peach and cherry skins while the bright palate offers Meyer lemon and cherry pit.

Palmina Barbera Honea Vineyard 2007**-***
What a great wine, Barbera is possibly the most versatile pairing varietal out there! Hot wings and pizza? No problem. Lovely nose of blackberries are dark red stone fruits led the way for the rich palate full of black currant. The mouth feel is what really separates this wine and other Barberas. Soft tannins and great acidity give you a luscious yet lively mouth full of wine. Wish I had more...

Babcock Pinot Noir Ocean's Ghost 2008**
Fairly primary still, deep and dark with smoky meat and blackberries. Nice wine but lacked that elusive enriched mid-palate that I am always looking for.

Calera Pinot Noir Mt. Harlan Vineyard 2006**-***
Savory and meaty leading into pretty perfumed fruit. Nice balance and mouth feel. This wine has huge potential and would almost certainly be a real treat to revisit in 5 years.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Aloha

June 10, 2010


Being in Hawaii for a week to celebrate the wedding of a great friend is probably a once in a lifetime opportunity, so why not go all out? On the Thursday night before the wedding I had just that chance. A group of 18 strong (not an ideal situation, but when you get lemons, right?) descended on the restaurant of 21 Degrees North at the Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore of Oahu. Sitting outside for our three hour meal we were blanketed by a warm breeze and wafting aromas that could only be Hawaii. Surrounded by good friends and family it was easy to get lost in any number of animated conversations and the breathtaking view of crashing waves beyond the enticing pool deck below. But, let's not forget about the food and drink that was laid out before me. Because the menu featured a five course tasting menu each with wine paired to enhance and intensify the layers of flavors and aromas of each dish, I felt compelled to partake.

Here you go:

Ahi Tar Tar
Taro Chip
Chili Mango Salsa
Nicolas Feuillate, N/V Champagne, France**
- The fresh fish garnished with a sweet and spicy salsa and toasty taro chip was a nice pairing for the bright bubbles. The wine was a nice companion but lacked the umph to inspire.

Smoked Kachiki
Caramelized Maui Onion
Tomato Herb Goat Cheese
Elk Cove, Willamette Valley, 0R Pinot Gris 2007**
- The smoked Kachiki (Hawaiian Marlin) was savory and a really interesting match to the summer salad of tomatoes and goat cheese. I particularly enjoyed this course as a complete thought, from food to wine.

Grilled Opakapaka
Corn, White Wine Butter Sauce
Cambria, Santa Maria, CA Chardonnay 2005**
- The fish was flaky and moist, With the slightly sweet corn and butter sauce the Chardonnay was a satisfactory match. I think that I may have gone with a wine with slightly less oak though.

Filet Mignon
Truffle Mashed Potato, Roasted Winter Vegetables
Rosemary Port Demi-Glace
Obsidian Ridge, “Red Hills”, Lake County, CA, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006**
- The filet was cooked very nicely at medium-rare with a delicious demi-glace and creamy truffle mashed potatoes. The Cab was a nice pairing, but like the bubbles lacked a depth of flavor to make it extremely memorable.

Chocolate Cherry Wrap
Vanilla Ice Cream
Dow’s 25 Year Old Fine Ruby Porto**
- A nice way to finish and always fun to have a slightly older Port.

Overall, this was a beautiful evening full of joyous anticipation and the simple enjoyment of food, drink, and good people. I hope that you enjoyed this one and I will see you back here soon.

Cheers!


0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Springtime al Fresco

June 2, 2010


This was another great get together with good friends at our favorite place, Fresco. We unfortunately were missing two key members; one because of an ornery and very guilty client and the other as a result of some unfortunate medication complications. But alas, we must forge on and continue to gather! Despite their absence, I can't avoid feeling a sense of optimism for new beginnings in this season of Spring. Even within our little group; I am surrounded by the addition of a new (junior) member, a budding new relationship, and the restored health of a friend. Good times are certainly ahead, but here are some reasons for current good times:

Star Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2008**
Classic bright nose of tart grapefruit, grass, and maybe a hint of gooseberry. The palate was crisp with persistent acidity, showing lime zest and nice minerality while boasting a vigorously long finish.

Talbott Chardonnay Diamond T Estate 2005**
I am not sure if it was me or if this wine has simply not gone to where I thought it would, but on this night, it was not nearly as exciting as my previous experience. Toasty new oak up front and very tropical with pineapple and papaya. Their was spiced vanilla bean on the palate and showed decent acid.

Palmina Dolcetto 2007**
Smoky and darker than I expected, but still had the typical medium-light body and was quite pleasant. Bright red fruit prevailed for this ever consistent food friendly wine.

Siduri Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2008**+
Showing great RRV character with a cloud of dark, smoky, meaty notes that engulfed the spiced black cherries. The palate wasn't extremely complex, but had nice weight and good fruit. This is truly one of the best deals out there for California Pinot Noir.

Pianetta Sangiovese Paso Robles 2007**-
This didn't have all the varietal character that I am typically looking for, but it went well with the food and showed nice bright red fruit.

Thanks for reading,

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Just your typical Tuesday night, right?

May 25, 2010


A wonderful side effect to going out for a night of sushi is that it offers a great opportunity to open some great white wines and roses. Out with some good friends of mine, we did just that. On this night, we went to Ahi Sushi on Upper State Street and hunkered down for what turned out to be a heck of a night. There were several rolls ranging from yellowtail, scallop, soft shell crab, and of course some form of spicy tuna to match with a small group of tasty wines.

The night then took us to a exploratory visit to Paseo Nuevo to research suits and tuxedos for their upcoming wedding festivities. After a little back and forth, it was time to move on to the next stop, the Wine Cask bar. There we were greeted by friends, who just happen to work their, and a cornucopia of options relating to good food and wine. After deciding that we all needed a little more nourishment we began the second half of our evening. There we shared an order of local mussels in a cream sauce with a bevy of fries and were treated to a specially created flatbread, on the house of course.

Read 'em and weep:

Jaffurs Rose 2008***
Turning more syrah-like in the sense that their is a developing darker profile to this wine. It remains dry, refreshing, and delicious but is no longer the spry bright wine that it once was. It matched extremely well with the brightness of the yellowtail carpaccio.

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2009***
In my opinion, this wine continues to be the best Sauvignon Blanc on the market. The nose was tropical with pineapple, banana, and lychee but also showing slightly more classic grassy notes. The beautifully balanced palate was gushing with wonderfully ripe pink grapefruit. A fantastic match with the spicy tuna Kamikaze roll.

Saracco Moscato d'Asti 2008**+
What a tasty little sweetie! Full of apples with a frothy creamy texture. Always enjoyable and what a deal! Great finish along with the tempura duck.

Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2007***
This elegant wine had a laser beam of rockin' acidity and was just what the doctor ordered to go along with a little second dinner of local mussels and sweet potato fries. The nose was waxy with goat cheese and coriander leading into caramelized lemon peel. The cleansing palate was bright with citrus and minerality with a persistent and lingering finish.

Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County 2008**
Taken as a taste, from cask. Very primary in character with luscious red fruits dominating.

Kunin Syrah Alisos Vineyard 2003***
Taken as a taste after a table sent this bottle back and it was immediately obvious that these particular individuals were not looking for a wine of any interest. Rich both on the nose and mouth, this wine is starting to go to it's secondary characteristics and has gone to a place of more finesse. Baked fruits, melted licorice, and forest floor help make this the best Kunin wine that I have had to date.

Another great night out with good friends in the wonderful place that I call home.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

A Gift of Nebbiolo

May 21, 2010
Having this tasting and dinner with my family truly came as a result of the generosity of a few winemakers, of whom each hail from wine growing regions separated by thousands of miles. First came the gift from the ever-charming and hospitable, Barbara Sandrone during our most recent visit to Piedmont, last May. Along with homemade preserves and plans for our next visit, she generously gave a bottle from the beloved Sandrone vineyard of Valmaggiore. The second gift came from the unlikely but developing friendship between my brother and esteemed winemaker, Chris Ringland of Australia. After a dinner in San Francisco, an unprompted Ringland generously sent a bottle of his extremely limited production and un-released bottling of Australia cool-climate Nebbiolo for our enjoyment. The last gift came from a source much closer to home. My friend and celebrated winemaker, Steve Clifton shared a bottle of his passion project in Nebbiolo from his Palmina winery.

Though none of these wines could be considered "heavy-hitters" in terms of the world of Nebbiolo, it was a fascinating experiment in what is being down with this varietal from around the world. All the wines showed fantastic development throughout the night and showed the great interest that this particular varietal can provide. I am obviously quite biased, as this is probably my favorite grape variety, but as the night progressed the rest of my family seemed to enjoy a heightened sense of appreciation for my beloved Nebbiolo. Despite their extreme geographic diversity, the wines all seemed to be speaking the same language and it was pretty impressive that they were all of the same caliber.

Overall this was one of those great nights of simple pleasures with family that just happened to be centered around good food and fine wines. Barbequed chicken, salad of local organic greens, and twice baked potatoes provided the necessary nourishment for the evening and here is the lineup of wines:

Qupe Roussanne Hillside Estate Bien Nacido Vineyard 2007***
Rich and creamy texture while not being heavy. Butter and honeysuckle on the nose led to a mouthful of tropical fruits ranging from lychee to papaya. This wine continues to impress, from barrel samples to now. Can't wait to see where this goes over the next 5+ years.

R Wines Nebbiolo Solita 2004***
Savory and balsamic notes initially leading into red and black licorice, rose, roasted berries, mocha, and something a little like chocolate covered cherries. The mouth was mid-weight and elegant, showing cranberries and tar. This wine was a hugely pleasant surprise for me. I am well aware of this particular winemakers prowess when it comes to decadent wines of Grenache and Syrah, but working with colder climate fruit from the Adelaide Hills, Ringland really hit the varietal character that is rarely found outside of the Langhe. To his credit and as an example of this wine's "authenticity," the nose initially reminded me of wines coming from Serralunga d'Alba.

Palmina Nebbiolo Santa Barbara County 2005***
Aromatic nose of bright red fruit that gained weight and richness over time, pretty violets, chocolate, and undertones of something slightly savory. The tannins were less integrated than the other wines but continued to soften over time. Sweet chalky red fruit covering classic tar on the palate. This wine was probably the only wine that could have been identified throughout the tasting, because of it's more forthcoming fruit characteristics. But, please do not be mistaken, this wine was a serious wine and very enjoyable to drink.

Sandrone Valmaggiore Nebbiolo d'Alba 2004***
Fantastic aromatics of blue fruits, violets and sweet pipe tobacco. The palate was a little more dense than the other two wines and showed a much more pronounced streak of minerality. To me, this was the wine that I'd be most interested in re-visiting in 5 to 10 years. Both the nose and mouth showed a deeper and darker core to them that left me quite intrigued and wanting more.

Tablas Creek Vin de Paille 2005**+
Looking like liquid gold, this little sweetie is a fantastic way to finish off a night. The powerful nose of apples reminded me of a fine Calvados (minus the alcohol). Mouth filling delicious baked apples never approached anything sappy and stayed quite elegant for this white Rhone blend.

I hope that our evening might inspire some of you to organize an evening with good friends and family to share some good wines in a way where you can all learn something as you enjoy each other's company. That is my sappy sentiment of this entry, please forgive my current gushy condition, I can't help it... Well, I hope that you enjoyed this one and I look forward to any feedback you might have.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Fresco - May 19, 2010

May 19, 2010


Much of the core group got together on another nice evening at Fresco Cafe. Even though we did miss most of the Laker's game, we managed to entertain ourselves with plenty of good vino and lively conversation. This night was another great example of the un-canny ability of this group to bring a group of wines without any prior discussion that were seemingly perfectly organized for a fairly coherent tasting experience. Having three different local Sangiovese based wines follow by new and old world Rhones provided a virtual full-house, for our enjoyment.

Here is the line-up:

Fleur du Cap Chardonnay 2008
I was pretty excited about tasting this wine due to my extreme lack of exposure to wines from South Africa. But, unfortunately this wine was corked. No new growth in my knowledge on this night.

Foxen 7200 Sangiovese Williamson-Dore Vineyard 2006**
Slightly simple but offering nice bright red smoky fruit and a good match with the food.

Foxen 7200 Sangiovese Volpino 2006**
This wine is an 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot blend and more interesting than it's single varietal counterpart (above). This wine opened up with air and showed a pleasant richness filled with red and blue berries and some new leather for texture.

Palmina Alisos 2007**+
A nice match along next to the Volpino, this 72% Sangiovese and 28% Merlot blend showed a dark rich character of plums and dark berries while a pretty florality floated over the top of it all.

Domaine Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape 2007**+
At first, this was a little more simple and one dimensional than is desirable with a CDP, showing plenty of juicy red fruit. With time, some of that meaty smoked bacon came forward and made this wine much more interesting and enjoyable. A nice wine but lacking some of the classic CDP characteristics that I typically am drawn to.

Beckmen Syrah Estate Barrel Select 2002**
Still surprisingly tight and tannic with an espresso like texture on the palate. Though somewhat clinched, this wine had a certain intensity about it, showing white pepper, eucalyptus/mint, and black fruits. Would be worth a try on day two.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Medium Spice?

May 18, 2010


You have to love a night like this; pulled together at the last minute but everything came together in a wonderfully serendipitous way. It all started with a craving for good Thai food and turned into a visit to Meun Fan Thai (Mesa Thai), good friends (and some new ones), and perfectly appointed wines.

The bubbles would have been a perfect pairing, but alas, they were done before we got the restaurant. Fortunately for us, there were three other bottles of wine that both complimented the food and stood out enough for discussion. On this particular night, the food selection leaned to the more spicy and was probably my favorite visit to date. To start we enjoyed: chicken satay, egg rolls, and shrimp rolls. Followed by: drunken noodle with shrimp, green curry with chicken, sizzling platter with chicken, and spicy fried rice. All were especially delectable and really satisfied my cravings.

N.V. G. H. Mumm & Cie Champagne Grand Cru Brut Chardonnay Mumm De Cramant***
Not much of a mouse to speak of and larger than expected bubbles. Initially showed great verve and bright almost piercing acidity with bakery notes on the nose. This wine started to really show some complexity with more airtime as it gained richness and developed a vinosity that was very nice. Final notes were more honeyed and layered.

2007 Alma Rosa Pinot Blanc***
This wine is seriously one of the better Pinot Blancs that I've ever had. And, a fantastic bargain on top of that. High tones of citrus on the nose led into a creamy and delicate palate.

2008 Jaffurs Rose***
Starting to show a little bit of age with a softening of the edges. But still showing that fantastic dry rose character that I love about this particular bottling. Refreshing, cherry skins, and a wonderful match to the spicy Thai food.

2007 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc***+
Youthful and bright on top of layered richness, adding endless enjoyment and interest to this wine. Citrus peel and strawberry guava developed into sumptuous and exotic mouthfuls of lychee and rambutan.

After all of that, we finished with something sweet and it was time to head home. This was one of those simple nights that truly engage, La Dolce Vita. Thanks for reading.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Each Wine Tells a Different Story

May 10, 2010
Another great night spent on the Mesa. When the cat is away, the mice will play and on this night, Mike and I really out did ourselves. Salami and crackers led into shrimp and bay scallop linguine. The lemon infused olive and wilted rocket were an especially nice touch.


Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc 2006***
Elegant and bright with huge acidity. Wonderfully refreshing with all of that nuance that you look for in Chardonnay. High tones of citrus peel and the salinity of minerality gave way to hints of marzipan and honey.

Kutch Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2008**-***
Unfortunately, campfire was clearly present in this wine. Despite the apparent smoke taint, it had all the stuffing to be a very nice wine. The smoke came and went as it was open and when it wasn't there I got plums, bacon fat, and a hint at something similar to soy or teriyaki beef jerky. The palate was one very nice constant offering bramble berries and was mouth filing while staying quite elegant.

Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005*-**
Tons of new American oak on this wine that completely dominated the nose and dried your palate. Fortunately with air, the initial singular focus of the wine began to relax and the fruit began to emerge. With this experience I can now say that I agree with large group of people that question the value of the hype surrounding this winery.

Food for thought:
How does a wine inherit the aromas of the atmosphere around the vines during the grapes maturation? The reason for me asking that question is in response to the Kutch wine enjoyed on this particular night, but leads into further questions about the actual depth of the concept of terrior.

There were massive and destructive wild fires all across the state of California during the summer of 2008 with several being caused by lighting strikes especially close to the vineyards of Sonoma. Could the smoke from these fires really impart it's distinct aromas into the very fabric of grape growing nearby and subsequently alter the fermented juice of those grapes? Apparently the answer is yes, but how? How does any outside influence get integrated into a finished wine? Even though I am sure there is some scientific reasons for its occurrence, I like to think that it is something more than that, something more beautiful and mysterious, like divine providence.

This issue is at the very heart of wine and why wine has been so celebrated for thousands of years. The ability to express a sense of place is what makes a wine so special and creates an undeniable sense of loyalty and pride amongst those that grow it, make it, and live it everyday of their lives. This is why wine isn't grown in hot houses and mass produced...well, good wine for that matter. The idea of terrior is paramount when thinking about wine. Without it, you might as well be drinking Budweiser.

Here is a question for everyone to think about: Why do you drink wine?

Until next time, cheers!



0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.