Thursday, April 29, 2010

Fresco - April 28, 2010

With a full house tonight, 12 of us gathered at Fresco for our typical calling of food, wine, and good company. One of the truly amazing things about this group is the ability to come together so often and without fail bring a collection of wines that shape an interesting and enjoyable tasting experience. I am astounded by the fact that we never coordinate wines and in 5 years, I can only remember a few occasions where we had a duplicate bottle. This is especially impressive due to the general local bias of this group and the majority of the group's cellars that represent that disposition.
Here is the line-up:

Palmina Traminer Alisos Vineyard 2009**
Very pale in color, the fresh aromas of something almost tropical makes you want to enjoy this wine somewhere sunny and warm. The refreshingly delicate palate showed bright apples and plenty of minerality.

Jazz Man Chardonnay Santa Maria (made by Dierberg) 2007**
Very typical local Chardonnay with plenty of fruit and oak, but not in an offense way at all. Creamy apples and butterscotch.

Omaka Springs Falveys Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2007**-
Something a little stemmy to me on the nose, probably why the put some sulfur on this wine before bottling. Behind that was plenty of cherry fruit and damp earth.

Foxen Pinot Noir Block 8 Bien Nacido Vineyard 2007***
This is not for wimpy Pinot drinkers! In that extracted Foxen style that won the favor of Big Bob Parker back in 2004, but while embracing that fact, a very enjoyable wine to drink. There was plenty of that primary fruit of black cherries and dark berries followed by some baking spices.

Zaca Mesa Syrah 2006**-
A little on the simple side showing blueberries and black pepper, but has it's merits.

Justin Justification 2006**+
Nice wine. Fortunately, it lacked that green characteristic that is all to common in Cab Franc. Bramble berries, leather, earth, and graphite.

Palmina Nebbiolo Santa Barbara County 2005**+
I question that this wine will really go the distance and be true to it's Nebbiolo heritage. I would probably say to drink this wine in the next few years because it may not get a whole lot better. With that being said, this is a nice wine. It shows good varietal character in that there is rose petal on the nose, leather, tart red fruit, and a touch of coffee.

Another successful evening with Los Borrachos at Fresco Cafe.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Monday, April 26, 2010

Hoppe's Garden Bistro

April 24, 2010


Spending the weekend in Cambria with my family has been and continues to be one of the great pleasures of my life. The time is typically spent lounging around the house, going on any number of our favorite walks, enjoying our spectacular view, and sharing great conversation over delicious food and wine.

I would like to focus on one particular evening of our three day weekend spent together. This evening began with some time spent out on the deck enjoying the expansive view, an aperitif, fresh Asian pear, prosciutto, assorted cheeses, and crackers. We then headed down to Cayucos to meet up with a friend of ours and talented young winemaker, Aaron Jackson. Meeting at Schooner's, the ultimate Cayucos bar that had everything but the barnacles, we shared a bottle of Aaron's newly bottled Rose. It was great to see Aaron again and as usual we were greeted with his genuine charm and verve for life.

Aaron Wines Rose of Petite Sirah 2009**
The Rose was deep in color, not surprising for anything made from Petite Sirah, but pleasantly light on it's feet. It was refreshing and gushing with watermelon without being sweet.

Off to dinner, down the street at Hoppe's. This establishment has become one of our usual stops while in the area. The food is always very good, the service is welcoming, and the menu is very wine friendly. The selections were varied, but from our table's sampling, all very good. Our starters included: local red abalone, salads, and crab and ahi spring rolls. We enjoyed a bottle Condrieu that was extremely enjoyable with and without the food on the table. For the main course there was: roasted duck, venison chops, filet mignon, and lamb chops. To enjoy along side all of these wonderful entrees was a bottle of Lynmar Pinot Noir from the Russian River that again was a very enjoyable bottle of vino.

Gangloff Condrieu 2007***
Another bottle of Condrieu that shows you just how good Viognier can be. Golden in color and wonderfully rich on the nose and palate. The nose was honeyed with pears and apricots. On the mouth there were gobs of ripe apricots without ever being sweet. It had fantastic balance that, along with the alluring aromas and flavors flowing from the glass, kept you coming back for more.

Lynmar Pinot Noir Quail Hill Vineyard 2005***
Very enjoyable Pinot Noir offering classic Russian River ripe fruit and elegance. Strawberries and cream with a nice medium to light mouth feel that showed great finesse to match perfectly with the tasty fruit.

Back home to polish off the rest of the homemade strawberry pie and relax. Great evening.

Cheers!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

A Trip To The Far End Of The Wine World

April 21, 2010
I was fortunate enough last night to gather with a group of good friends at my house and share a line-up of very enjoyable wines, good food, and lively conversation. The focus of our evening were the wines of Central Otago, New Zealand, specifically Pinot Noir. We got things going with some bubbles and Pinot friendly cheese, crackers, fruit, and charcuterie followed by an impressive lamb, mushroom, and radicchio risotto.

As is the resplendent norm for this group, our focus is just as much centered on learning as it is the shear enjoyment of wine. Hence, that is why we gathered on this evening to share these fairly obscure wines from the 45th parallel on other side of the planet. One note for these wines and future tastings is that these wines all needed time to open up and we could have used a handful of decanters to remedy the situation.



Getting things started right:

NV Dosnon & Lepage Champagne Recolte Noire Brut***
Elegant and fine without any apparent dosage that kept this wine dry and crisp both on the nose and palate. Biscuit with undertones of fruit on the nose. Very nice.

NV Quartz Reef Methode Traditionnelle**
Distinctly different from the Champagne. Richer and rounder with apples and a creamier texture.

Flight One:

2006 Olssens Pinot Noir Jackson Barry Vineyard***
Classic Pinot Noir nose with that slightly earthy and mushroom core surrounded by pretty red fruit and a hint of smoke. The finish was a little abrupt at first but this wine, like the others, really opened up and developed into something quite nice.

2006 Rippon Pinot Noir***
Much more of a "California" style wine with ripe red raspberries and plums up front and followed by a hint of baking spice. The palate was medium weight with chalky tannins and a streak of acidity that went down like a laser beam.

Flight Two:

2008 Felton Road Pinot Noir***
This one took a long time to open up but after an hour in glass it really showed it's stuff. Black plum and savory game on the nose while the tannins softened with air and the high acid begged for food.

2008 Felton Road Pinot Noir Calvert Vineyard***
Much quicker to open up. The nose possessed beautiful deep rich fruit, spice, and leather. On the mouth there were plums and much more integrated tannins.

Flight Three:

2002 Jean-Michel Gaunoix Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes***
Our only blind bottle, brought in as a ringer. Classic and easily singled out as clearly not from Central Otago. Very nice and quite elegant. Leather, dried cherries, and spice.

2008 Mud House Pinot Noir*
Not especially interesting and somewhat simple in comparison to the other wines tonight. There was something initially off-putting about the nose but that blew off with air time. Maraschino cherries.

Finishing strong:

2005 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco***
Very young but already showing fairly well and providing plenty of enjoyment. Bright red strawberries and cherries engulfed in floral violets on the nose. The medium to light weight palate showed a youthful tannic structure but still had a soft fruit profile that reminded me of milk chocolate covered cherries.

Food for thought:
-The Dosnon & Lepage Champagne was a fantastic way to start things off and showed the clear distinction between new world sparklers and the class and refined wines made in Champagne.
-This was a wonderful opportunity to taste a group of wines from an up and coming region of the world that is still under the radar (only one bottle found in any wine store in town). They find a nice balance between "new world" and "old world" expressions of Pinot Noir. If you are someone that enjoys classic Pinot Noir fruit without being overwhelmed by ripeness, bright acidity, and nicely balanced wines, I recommend doing your homework and getting your hands on some Pinot Noirs from the Central Otago region of New Zealand. For me, these wines are much more interesting than the wines from the much more common and easy to find, Marlborough region.
-Drinking the Barbaresco was a bitter-sweet moment for me. It was very nice and as always, a real treat to enjoy the Nebbiolo grape expressing it's beauty. But, we truly robbed the cradle on the wine and it only gave us a glimpse of what it will become. Very tasty stuff, but the lesson to learn here is BE PATIENT!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that should be searched out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Italy 2010 - Travel Journal - Part VII

May 26, 2009


Up early for a run, again about 2.5 miles up and over the hill, through Bellagio, and to the outermost point of the peninsula for a magnificent moment in a breathtaking place. Out on that point, surrounded by the glassy water and silence of the Alps I thought to myself that I just hope that I can keep this moment in my memory as a place of peace. When life gets crazy and I need to take a breath, I just hope to come back to this moment; so splendid, so pure, and so perfect.

Breakfast under the pergola was scenic and would have been peaceful if not for the entertaining and rowdy construction workers doing road repair next to hotel.

We ride a ferry over to the nearby town of Varenna. A great little town that we wandered through until reaching Villa Monastero for a beautiful garden stroll. Lunch at Vecchia Varenna, located on the water’s edge with a great view of Varenna’s waterfront. Chris had a Insalata Mista and Dad had a “light” start with a plate of salami and speck… They then both had Risotto with Perch. I had Parmigiano di Melanzane (very thinly sliced and delicious) then ravioli di Cinghaile that was also great. A beer for the fellas and I had a glass of crisp Prosecco.

We hopped on a ferry for a cruise around the lake and then back to Bellagio. A mandorla tostato and stracciatella gelato and then back to relax and pack up at La Pergola.

After a very pleasant drink from “La Piccola Principessa” out at the water at our place, we head over for dinner at La Grotta. Simple place with a wine list like I used to see back in my days as a student in Rome. No winery names, just types of wine to chose from. Chris got Linguine alla Volgole Veraci then a prosciutto e funghi pizza, Dad had a caprese then a carciofi pizza, and I had a their house specialty- pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta with melted cheese and potatoes – so rich) then a Pizza Diavola. Barbera d’Alba was our wine. Quick walk around Bellagio and then back to our hotel for a beer and some balcony time to watch the local scenery and characters in the newly cool weather.

Great finish to a special trip. I know that I certainly missed a key member to our travelling crew and won’t exclude Mom from another trip like this again. The Rauber Men’s trip is complete and this will certainly provide plenty of fodder for years to come. It was such a special thing for Chris and me to be able to do this with Dad and be able to share these wonderful memories forever. Without a doubt, I will cherish these 7 glorious days for the rest of my life.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Italy 2010 - Travel Journal - Part VI

May 25, 2009


A typical crazy drive and some credit card problems, but we made it. Lake Como is spectacular. The captivating lake so calm and peaceful juxtaposed to the shear and dramatic alpine mountains that surround it. The narrow road that leads you here is a sign of the isolation that these small villages have enjoyed for centuries. That isolation is still here, geographically, but we found more tourists in the first 5 minutes in Bellagio than we saw in 5 days in Barolo.

Our hotel is in the hamlet of Pescalla within the town of the Bellagio. La Pergola is located directly adjacent to the lake with views toward the village of Varenna. We check in and have lunch at the hotel under the pergola that is at the lake’s edge. We find that the local cuisine features much more fish than the very meat-centric Piedmonte. We all have an insalata mista (mine with formaggi e olive) and then Chris and I have lasagna verde with salmone e spinaci while Dad got the ravioli pesce con burro e salvia. A nice Italian “summer beer” hit the spot.

After lunch we walk over the hill into the center of Bellagio. Dramatic views, steep shop laden streets (as narrow as they are charming), and a beautiful waterfront beaming with a flair not unlike Portofino. Dad takes us around to his favorite spots and we do a little shopping. Finally got a gelato, good but not great, so will definitely have to get another. We twice run into a German couple who stayed at Einaudi while we were there, not our friend from the pool and his admirable companion, but another couple who are quite nice. It is still very warm here and as we climb back over the hill to La Pergola, we are all very thankful to have air conditioning in our room. (Despite its inability to completely cool our room).

Enjoyed a bottle of Seghesio Barbera d’Alba** that we had picked up at the winery, on our balcony and then back over the hill for dinner at Ristorante Barchetta. Nice spot upstairs on a tiny street with quite a gradient (a definite regularity in this town). A lot of Americans here, but the food and atmosphere were still very good. Chris had a spaghetti Bolognese and then a misto fritto di Lago. Dad had a calamari with sweet peppers over pasta and then risotto in butter with local Perch. I had a local fish that was seemingly pureed on sliced heirloom tomatoes and then a risotto with local sausage which seriously resembled refried beans and chorizo con queso, but much better! Warm evening made the white wines go down very easily. Tocai Fruliano from Fruili** then an Arneis from Pio Cesare**. We sat near a very talkative and BMW enthusiastic British couple that were fun to talk with and kept us there fairly late. Then back over the hill on our now quite dark trek back to Pescallo.

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Friday, April 16, 2010

Italy 2010 - Travel Journal - Part V

May 24, 2009


Relaxing start with no where to go until our 10:30am tour of Einaudi’s winery located across the auto court from our room. I went for a quick 2.5 mile run, this time in the opposite direction. Up the hill south of the hotel and back, arousing the attention of every single dog along the way. The Einaudi tour was short and sweet with a Croatian man working in the winery who, being from Split, claimed to know Goran Ivanisevic. No tasting, but that was ok, I’m sure we’ll open something later by the pool.

Time to check out the village of Serralunga d’Alba and we are finally starting to get a handle of things here without getting lost each time we leave the hotel. Lunch at Centro Storico. Much more simple menu and relaxed atmosphere, the waiter speaks impeccable English and offered a great recommendation for a Verdicchio from Marche to have with our meal. Chris has a fresh zucchini, tomato, and asparagi salad. Dad and I have a Caprese with wonderfully creamy bufala. Dad has a pasta pomodoro, Chris and I have ravioli con burro e salvia that was packed with great flavor despite its simple appearance. Didn’t take advantage this visit, but they did have a ridiculous selection of Champagnes.

A quick walk around in the 90 degree heat and we hurried back to our air conditioned car for a trip over to the village of Barolo. Another medieval town to wind around and marvel at the charm of this area. Makes me think about how honest this place and its people are, not trying to be anyone or anything they aren’t, just doing what they’ve always done and loving both its simplicity and sophistication.

Time to go back to the pool and cool off. Relaxing with a book (A Hedonist in the Cellar, Adventures in Wine by Jan McInerney), a little swim, and some good Barolo (’00 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Nei Cannubi*** and ’04 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Coste Grimaldi***). Such a perfect way to spend an afternoon.

Dinner is at Le Rose dei Vini just outside Serralunga d’Alba. Great restaurant for our last night here in Piedmonte. Situated with a view as good as we’ve seen here, and we’ve seen a lot. Looking onto Castiglione Falletto out on the newly renovated covered terrace we all decided on the tasting menu which ended up being 6 courses for 25 euro per person. After a glass of Prosecco to get things started we had prosciutto and pane fritto, veal carpaccio – thinly sliced with summer truffles shaved on top, torta d’asparagi, stewed veal with a contorno of steamed carrots, a trio of panna cotta –chocolate, classic and hazelnut, and finally a tray of piccoli dolci misti. With a great wine list, rich in older vintage Barolo and Barbaresco, we selected a ’98 Azelia Barolo** for 47 euro. Slightly more fruit forward with silky tannins (as we’ve learned is common of this vintage) that made this still youthful wine quite easy to drink.

Unfortunately, our time here is up, but I am again determined to return sooner rather than later. A grappa to settle the dust nicely and then tomorrow morning its time to say goodbye to Piedmonte and hello to Lombardia and the beautiful town of Bellagio.

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Italy 2010 - Travel Journal - Part IV

May 23, 2009


Finally a full night’s sleep and we are ready for the day! Nice relaxing breakfast before heading to Monforte d’Alba to do a little sightseeing. Beautiful church with a wonderfully decorated interior, sculptural stations of the cross, simple yet beautiful ceiling, and great frescos. Cool little town that we wandered around some by foot and then did the major climbs in our trusty Opel. One can easily see that history has been kind to this town and there is some money that runs deep here as is evident by the villas above the town and richly decorated church in the central piazza.

Over to La Morra for lunch, a highly elevated hill town with wonderful views, unfortunately the high heat and humidity abbreviated our visit and hindered our views a bit. Drove down to Osteria Veglio for a second try and was again denied, not meant to be this time.

We had lunch at the elegant and spectacularly situated Bovio. This was a seriously classy place with wonderful food, drink, service, and views. Also, one thing that until now I have failed to mention is the high level of table linens, silverware, and stemware at every single restaurant we have visited and no better example of that than Bovio. They started us with a crowd favorite, fried zucchini flowers and homemade breads. Chris had veal tartare with shaved black truffles and aged grana then gnocchetti with salsiccia from Bra. Dad had insalata mista then the gnocchetti. I had a millefolie of roasted peppers, tuna (tunny), balsamico and greens with capers. Second I had a Lasagnetta of fresh verdure that was amazing! A new discovery for me and a new favorite. Washed it down with a wonderful bottle of ’04 Aldo Conterno Bussiador Chardonnay**** that was rich and elegant; honey, jasmine, baked cherries, strong minerality, and great acidity.

Drove over towards Serralunga d’Alba to visit the extremely isolated Seghesio winery. Aldo hosted us and did not speak a single word of English! I tried my best to keep things going and have some transfer of information back and forth. He and his wife were very nice but there was certainly a balance of good wine, awkward silence, and clumsy lingual exchanges. The prices were right and we picked up some Barbera and a “Super-Piedmonte” blend. Tasted ’07 Dolcetto** and ’07 Barbera d’Alba** with no oak, ’06 Barbera d’Alba** aged in barrique that was much richer and deeper, ’05 Bouquet*** (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Nebbiolo blend) that was very nice, and ’05 Barolo La villa** that was fruit forward and powerful. Overall a very cool visit (despite the high heat) that was rustic and extremely authentico.

Back to the hotel for some vino bianco, cheese and breadsticks by the pool. Great scenery, both local and some imported from Germany… Met an automobile writer from Bavaria that was more pro-American that us! Ha! Yah. Though he left us craving a nice “summer beer.”

Dinner at Antica Corona Reale da Renzo in Cervere, after an extended drive, we arrived ready to eat. Another top class ristorante. Started with a Piedmonte sparkler from a producer called Cocchi from the Langhe that was dry and yeasty and a perfect way to re-awaken our palates for the special meal about to come our way. We all started with the house specialty – fried baby frogs. The general consensus of the table was that it was best that Kelly wasn’t here for this part of evening… They were moist and delicate, somewhat like a mini chicken wing, and a very memorable antipasto. Chris and I followed with two different ravioli dishes that we both thoroughly enjoyed while Dad skipped to a secondi, agnello (about time…) – a beautiful rack of lamb. All went quite well with the ’05 Roberto Voerzio Barbera d’Alba** that was much more massive and luscious than others in this area, but quite enjoyable. Dolci misti of tasty treats before Chris had a duo of crème brulee (lavender and amaretto), Dad had profiteroles, and I had a chocolate cake with gelato. The service here was the best we have experienced in Piedmonte and maybe the best I’ve ever had in Italy.

After a grappa and good conversation back at Einaudi, it was off to bed.

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

The Fresco Group - April 13, 2010

This was a nice evening of wine, food, and good conversation at Fresco Cafe. And, an especially good showing of wines on this night. Everything was within a nice range of good to very good, or at the very least, quite interesting.
Here is the hit list:

-Longoria Albarino Clover Creek Vineyard 2008** - key-lime pie all over this crisp and clean wine, tailor made for a hot summer afternoon.

-Qupe Roussanne Hillside Estate Bien Nacido Vineyard 2007*** - This wine was a little shy upon opening and was reminiscent of an older Napa Chardonnay. With some airtime it opened up and started to show the layers that I was remembering from tasting this wine in barrel. The nose had butterscotch and hazelnut while the mouthfeel was full of rich, buttery tropical fruit and white chocolate.

-Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2007** - still young and a little tight showing smoky red fruit and plenty of acid.

-Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills 2008*** - youthful and primary but very enjoyable with black cherries, plums, and spice. (Great wine for the price)

-Mouton-Cadet Bordeaux 1988** - no longer showing fruit and most likely over the hill, showed worn saddle leather and wood elements. Someone at the table said that this wine was "dying gracefully"...

-Palmina Savoia 2006*** - as always, this Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Syrah blend was quite nice. It was richly textured with dark fruit, chocolate, and fig.

Food for thought - I would like to open it up to the readers out there to email me or post a comment on any post if you have any questions or topics that you'd like to see in the "Food for thought" section of the blog. Thanks!

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Italy 2010 - Travel Journal - Part III

May 22, 2009


Early start for Chris and I; both waking up at 5:45am and attempting to sleep until about 6:30am before eventually both getting up and sneaking out to the lounge for a review of the massive collection on Wine Spectators.

After another great breakfast we are off again, this time to Monforte d’Alba and Poderi Aldo Conterno. Now this is a classy place, looks like an Italian version of a chateau from Bordeaux, perched on the ridge between La Morra and Serralunga d’Alba. We were hosted by Aldo Conterno’s son, Giacomo. He is extremely polite and considerably passionate about his wine and his family’s identity and reputation. As a 5th generation winemaker it is easy to see his strong roots and loyalty to his craft and his terroir. We began by tasting in the cantina. The explanation of the philosophy was both educational and truly engrossing. 5 wines and great conversation kept us busy for over 2 hours before even taking a quick tour of their cellars. ’06 Chardonnay Bussiador**** was rich yet elegant with wonderful fruit, powerful minerality, and mouthwatering acidity. This wine was honestly one of the best chardonnay’s I’ve ever had and could easily age for 10 years. ’06 Barbera d’Alba** had huge acidity that begs for something rich and fatty to eat with it. ’04 Barolo, ’05 Barolo Colonnello**** – great fruit, beautiful nose of roses and classic Barolo purity. ’05 Barolo Romirasco*** was powerful and deep. Something of note is the attention to detail seen here, for example the “seasoning” of the glass before tasting each new wine. The facility was first class and the wines were individually and collectively some of the most impressive I’ve ever experienced. History, place, and purity.

All riding high, we headed up to Alba for lunch at Vicoletto. Before lunch we hit up 3 wine shops to do our purchasing; Le Torre, Grandi Vini, and Fracchia e Berchialla. I picked up a Bruno Giacosa ’01 Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba, Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta, and ’05 Aldo Conterno Bussiador Chardonnay.

La Vicoletto was small, simple, and elegant. Fresh selections of cheeses, meats, and antipasti were available porto via (take out) or for a sit down meal like we did. Chris and Dad got the ravioli di zucchini flower with an insalata mista while I ordered the tajarin w/ a rabbit ragu and fantasia di verdure. We had a Bruno Giacosa Arneis** to pair.

After lunch we continued up to Barbaresco to visit Moccagatta. Beautiful location at the top of their Bric Balin vineyard. Both Sergio Minuto and his daughter hosted us but she did the talking because she is the only person in the family who speaks English. Very nice people and after a short tour we sat in the cantina to taste. ’07 Chardonnay** saw no oak and was bright, fresh, and simple. ‘07 Chardonnay Buschet** was rich, oaky, and much more complex. ’07 Dolcetto** and ’07 Barbera d’Alba** both showed nice ripe fruit. ’06 Barbaresco Basarin** and ’06 Barbaresco Bric Balin*** were both quite young but showing promise with particular interest and favor towards the Bric Balin. After some discussion about our dinner last night and our affection for the wines, Sergio brought a ’90 Barbaresco Bric Balin that was unfortunately oxidized. But he tried again with the ’90 Barbaresco Le Cote****. Wow! Still so fresh but showing wonderful maturity and so many secondary flavors and aromas. Special, special wine. Even more amazing than the wine was the generosity that Sergio displayed without a second thought. Yet another great visit.

Back to Alba to finalize a purchase for Chris and Dad and a little price discussion leaving both of them quite pleased with themselves and their purchases. We then head back to Einaudi to relax a bit and enjoy a little repose.
Dinner tonight was in Dogliani, Il Verso del Ghiottone, a recommendation from Elvira here at Einaudi. It being so close to our home base was a welcomed change. Unassuming from the outside with a very nice interior, lush courtyard, and inventive twist on classic Piedmontese cuisine. Chris and I started with rabbit ravioli with shaved black truffle in a light broth. Dad started with a very innovative crème di asparagi e anchovy with a buffalo mozzarella froth and suppli and lightly fried asparagi for dipping. For secondi Chris had a roasted piglet cheek over a potato gratin, Dad had veal prepared 3 ways, and I had a misto fritto of rabbit, veggies, buffalo mozzarella, and fruit. Interesting combination of flavors that all worked together. Dolci we shared a parfait of sorts with a pistachio cookie, cherry and strawberries, topped with mascarpone. Luckily we were able to also enjoy a bottle of ’01 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia***. Rose petal, menthol, anise, and dark chocolate on the nose with a rich, earthy, and dark fruit mouth. Great! The waiter offered a complimentary grappa di moscato to send us off right.

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Italy 2010 - Travel Journal - Part II

May 21, 2009
Actually slept pretty well, so I decided to go for a run down to Dogliani. It ended up being a pretty treacherous route with about a 400 foot decline in the first mile along a popular road to town. The return portion was certainly a challenge between the steep grade and non-existence shoulder along the road.
Breakfast was as simple yet elegant as I remember from our last visit. Fresh strawberries and pineapple, cheeses, breads, trio of cereals, fresh hard boiled eggs, homemade jams of reds fruits or plums, fresh squeezed juice, and some pretty delicious coffee.
Off to Luciano Sandrone for our 9:30 appointment, not an easy task, AGAIN. But, with highly detailed directions we were only 15 minutes late this time! Good work Chris.
We are greeted by Barbara Sandrone’s assistant, Anna Rech, but are joined shortly thereafter by Barbara herself. It is great to see her and we can easily see that the feeling is mutual. She is expectantly quite reluctant and humbled to receive the gift we have brought along, ’06 Seasmoke Botella. We talk politics, economic struggles, and our common optimism, recent weather that has resulted in the mudslides making the already confusing system of roads all the more difficult to navigate, and just general pleasantries about family. I am immediately reminded of her genuine and uncommonly sweet nature. The tour is in depth and enjoyable. During the process I learned a new factoid on the winery’s construction. It is a “box in a box” allowing separation of all foundation walls from the interior wall for insulation from the temperature and humidity.
Our tasting is a nice expression of their production: ’07 Dolcetto**, ’06 Barbara*** (especially good), ’06 Nebbiolo Valmaggiore** (in Roero with extremely steep sloped vineyard), ’05 Barolo Le Vigne***, and ’05 Barolo Cannubi Boschis***. So, 3 ½ hours later and after Barbara presented us with her grandmother’s homemade fruit preserves and a personalized bottle of the ’04 Valmaggiore, we were on our way. Oh yeah, that’s not including the invitation to return with the ladies for a next visit, tasting, lunch, and vineyard tour of the breathtaking Valmaggiore!
Onto Castiglione Falletto; as we wound our way up the streets of this medieval village we quickly found our lunch destination, Ristorante Le Torri. This place is something else, the well appointed exterior and interior architecture is a wonderful preamble for the spectacular views and equally inspiring food. Lightly breaded and ricotta stuffed zucchini flower to awaken the palate. Dad and I had Burrata with trout carpaccio (looking like a caprese salad) while Chris had a salted cod over potato and vegetable salad. Next Chris and I had Plin (small local ravioli) with classic burro and salvia while Dad had fettuccine with asparagus and cherry tomatoes. We accompanied these with a delightfully refreshing and aromatic ’08 Vietti Arneis**.
After that great lunch, we walked next door to taste and visit Vietti. We are welcomed by the Currado family and hosted by the mother of wine maker and current proprietor, Luca Currado. She is the Vietti family. Following this talkative and energetic woman in her 70s we climbed all over the hillside of the historic facility walking deep into caves that connect to original tunnels dating back to the 8th century and formally connecting all the way to Serralunga d’Alba as a means for escape from attack. So many different levels and small rooms that at one point we’re facing east and peering through small windows offering a view of Serralunga d’Alba and then in another we were told to look out and surprisingly this was west and in the distance was La Morra. Though the spaces were immensely interesting and like something conjured from time long passed, I found myself wondering how wine is even made in this maze of rustic spaces and vast caves cut so deep into the hillside. Besides the modern technology found in the tasting room and stainless steel fermenting tanks, this winery is much more reminiscent of a winery at the turn of the 20th century rather than the 21st, making it all the more impressive the high quality of vino produced here.
Fun Fact: Alfredo Currado (Luca’s father) is called the Father of Arneis. He was the first to vinifi a 100% Arneis wine from Roero in known history. They simply had random vines in the vineyards that the growers called “nebbiolo bianco” and the winemakers mixed them all together during harvest without a second thought. In 1978, Alfredo was able to get the local catholic parish priest to make an announcement at mass to ask all growers to separate the Arneis fruit out and he would buy it. 46 baskets – 1 to 2 baskets at a time and he made the first 1000 bottles of Arneis in Piedmonte. Also, he is credited with being the first to make vineyard designate (single vineyard) Barolos.
Besides the beautiful labels that decorate the Vietti bottles, what is on the inside is all the more special. Just like the lesson taught to Chris and I by Mom… They have been enlisting the services of different artists for the past 35 years to do label art at the price of 6 cases of the wine their art will adorn.
Finding ourselves now in the newly redecorated and highly modern-chic tasting room we are treated to a beautiful line-up of Vietti wines. ’08 Arneis** (same as lunch), ’06 Barbera d’Alba Scarrone**, ’06 Barbera d’Asti La Crena**, ’05 Barolo Castiglione***, and ’05 Barolo Lazzarito***. The common theme is definitely a purity of fruit and true expression of varietal and vineyard specific characteristics.
After a quick drive over to La Morra for a little purchasing research at the impressive Enoteca Gallo, we head back to Einaudi to freshen up and catch our breath before dinner.

Up in Alba, after carrying on the common theme of this area and losing our way for a bit, we were directed by a friendly local to our dinner destination, La Libera. At first glance this restaurant is modern and inventive and through the antipasti it stretched my understanding of Italian cuisine. Seafood mouse stuffed zucchini flowers with chilled gamberi for Chris and Dad during which I got something that is actually quite difficult for me to describe. It was a large poached egg with a carciofi crème on a bed of julienned sardines and some sort of root vegetable. The primi’s came back to more recognizable and traditional fare; Chris having what is becoming his norm – Tajarin with ragu, Dad – Fusili (thickest and longest I’ve ever seen) with a seppia (octopus) and carciofi sauce, and I got a Lasagnetta of asparagi (lasagna baked in a puff pastry). I rarely turn down a pasta baked al forno. We accompanied those with a ’96 Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin***. After a quick decant the wine really opened up. It began with crushed raspberries and sweet violets but developed into roasted meats and saddle leather on the nose with pomegranate and tart red raspberries on the palate. Time to head back to Einaudi, Alba is a town in the same spirit of Avignon and I look forward to our next visit. Maybe tomorrow we will have the energy for a grappa in our lounge.

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Monday, April 12, 2010

Italy 2010 - Travel Journal - Part I

This past May, my brother and I took my Dad to Italy to celebrate his 60th birthday. On this amazing trip, I wrote a travel Journal. I would like to share that journal with you over the next 7 posts. I hope that you enjoy, because this was truly a special once in a lifetime type of trip for me.

May 20, 2009

We arrived in Italy at 8:00am, the flights went well and we arrived a little early. Bags and rental car came quickly and our drive was rapid and full of beautiful green countryside.

Arrival at the Poderi di Luidi Einaudi was highlighted by some pyrotechnics from Chris as a result from some road gripping driving by Dad, I think we’ll have Chris sit in the front seat from now on…

The Poderi is as perfect as I remember. Our room is spacious and well appointed. After checking in, we ventured to La Morra to find Osteria Veglio for lunch. I can’t be certain if it was the enchanting beauty of this wonderful place, the jet-lag, or our growing hunger but it took us a little while to locate our target. And alas, it was closed, typical… only in Italy, closed on Mondays and Wednesdays. We will be back, you can count on that.

We searched for something of sustenance before our appointment at Paolo Scavino. We stumbled upon a hole in the wall that served a daily special without any chance of substitutions. Prosciutto and salame followed by farfalle pasta with pesto and an insalata mista definitely hit the spot.

On to Scavino, beautiful compound with a wonderfully rustic yet refined addition completely in 2003. High tech meets old world here. Nice tour with an American who is working at the winery. Seemed to be a privileged kid but undoubtedly taking full advantage of his spectacular situation. We tasted through 8 wines ranging from their only white, Langhe Bianco** which is a Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier blend, house red, Dolcetto**, Barbera d’Alba**, ’05 Barolo**, ’05 Barolo Carobric**, ’05 Bric del Fiasco**, and ’99 Barolo Carobric***. All the wines were high quality; the Barbera along with the Carobric Barolo’s really stood out to me. I couldn’t walk away from the beautiful nose of that ’99 Carobric; rose, violet, sweet chalk (almost like the chalk in the old packs of baseball cards that had a stick of gum in them) – fantastic!

Back at the hotel, we wandered down to the pool (which by the way is shaped like a 25 meter long Bordeaux style wine bottle); surprised an overexposed guest, took a few laps, and then rested the ol’ eyes before getting ready for dinner. Refreshed, we ventured downstairs to the pergola to enjoy the vista along side a glass of ’99 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Nei Cannubi*** that Dad fen-angled from Elvira (our ever-present and helpful host). She followed us out there with a plate of delicious sheep’s milk semi-soft cheese and breadsticks. How Perfect?! The wine was rose, anise, deep rich sassafras and chocolate covered cherries. Wow!

The drive to dinner was through the lush valley leading from Dogliani to Monforte d’Alba. We cut through Monforte to Trattoria della Posta arriving 20 minutes before they opened. Luckily, they opened the gate for us and sat us on the veranda with a glass of Brut Rose Franciacorta**. What a start! Strawberry on the nose but very dry and crisp on the palate. First experience with Franciacorta for me and it was a memorable one. Our reservation was at 8pm (yeah, first day in the country and we are still going strong). Chris decided it would be a good idea for us to get the fixed price menu, and what an idea it was! It ended up being 40 euro per person and 8 courses of Piedmonte goodness. A trio of antipasti to start along with linen wrapped homemade breadsticks before a beef carpaccio, veal with tuna (tunny) sauce, roasted onion filled with cheese, primi of local tagliatelli (called Tajarin) with a ragu, secondi was medallions of veal in a Barolo reduction, and a two part dolci of Italian crème brulee then sorbetto di fragola. We barely made it through, but the ’06 Vietti Barbera d’Alba Scarrone*** gave us the fortitude to finish the job. Quite a day.

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Announcement

After some discussion with a friend of mine, I feel that I need to have some sort of organized and consistent system of rating the wines that I taste along the way. The qualitative evaluation that I will be using is by no means an exact science or professional assessment of a wine or its future. This is my way, through the experiences that I've had and palate that continues to develop, to create a system for comparing and tracking wines along this journey of mine. I hope that you find my method useful and I am open to anyone's thoughts or suggestions to better represent the information that I am sharing.

0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*)- Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**)- A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***)- Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****)- Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****)- An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Please bear with me, I will gradually apply this new rating concept to older posts to establish a comprehensive level of consistency.

Thank you

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

A Tasty Beverage Or So Much More?

November 15, 2009

In what has become an annual trip over the past 3 years, the Rauber clan came together for a visit to the Russian River Valley for food, wine, and family togetherness. The group included myself, my parents, and my brother Chris and his wife, Kelly. Besides enjoying each other's company and several fantastic gastronomic experiences at local restaurants and wineries, the crown jewel and ultimate motivation for this meeting of the minds is our visit to the winery of Kosta Browne.

For a quick background on my family's connection to this distinct winery in Sebastopol I will give you the long and short of it. My brother Chris, is family friends with the original investors and continued owners of KB and we were lucky enough to be put on the allocation list at a very early stage in their production and exploration of the Pinot Noir varietal. From our first experience with the wines made by Michael Browne, we were hooked. In addition, we have been fortunate enough to spend time in the cellars with Michael to taste his creations, absorb his philosophies, and enjoy his straightforward and honest personality. One of the most enjoyable aspects to tasting wine with Michael is the way in which he talks about wine in general and most specifically the wine that is produced by his hand. Weather he is discussing the blending process in terms of symphonic assembly or physical structure, a wine may be "rocking and rolling right now," or we might be tasting some "kick-ass juice" at any point during a visit to the cellars of KB.

During our previous visit, there was discussion of making a Chardonnay, so Chris decided to bring something from our May trip to Piedmont. Because we thought that Michael would enjoy it, he brought a bottle of Aldo Conterno Bussiador 2005 to help kick off the tasting and add another dimension to the afternoon. It was a fascinating way to begin the tasting and helped direct the following discussions to a greater sense of depth and interest, in my opinion.

Within their fairly new home, the large warehouse that was formally an apple packing house, we began with an initial taste of the Bussiador and a special opportunity to taste some "kick-ass juice" that was his newest project, still fermenting Chardonnay juice from the 2009 vintage. In addition to and along with the current releases of Pinot Noirs, Michael opened up a KB Sauvignon Blanc 2000 for our educational and experiential enjoyment. Here are the bottles tasted:

-Poderi Aldo Conterno Bussiador 2005*** (wonderfully complex and rich, great acid, minerality, and balance. Really cool to revisit this wine after some Pinot Noir to see it stand up and show more layers)
-Kosta Browne Chardonnay Juice from the Martinelli Vineyard 2009
-Kosta Browne Sauvignon Blanc 2000** (showed it's age but still brought pleasure)
-Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch 2007***
-Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Gary's Vineyard 2007***
-Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Kanzler Vineyard 2007***

During the barrel tasting of the 2008 Vineyard Designates there was one thing that stuck out to me, more than anything, and that fact was that this was really tasty stuff! It is an extremely rare occurrence, in my experience, that you spend a couple hours barrel tasting samples of wine and have a hard time finding a single wine that you didn't enjoy. These are unfinished wines that were also just pieces of a complete assembly yet to be orchestrated by Michael. I can honestly say that I am as excited about the upcoming 2008 vintage as I was for the renowned 2007 vintage. Barrels tasted:

Russian River

-Russian River pressed juice 2008
-Russian River 2008
-Russian River 2008
-Klopp Vineyard 2008

Sonoma Coast

-Gap's Crown Dijon 23 Clone 2008 (stood out to the rest of my family. A new Vineyard Designate for KB)
-Gap's Crown Pommard 5 Clone 2008
-Gap's Crown Dijon 667 Clone 2008
-Koplen 2008
-Keefer Ranch Dijon 23 Clone 2008 +
-Keefer Ranch Dijon 114 Clone 2008 +
-Gary's 2008
-Amber Ridge 2008
-Amber Ridge 2008
-Kanzler Dijon 112 Clone 2008 +
-Kanzler Dijon 667 Clone 2008 +
-Kanzler Pommard 5 Clone 2008 +

+ - Wine of significant interest and pleasure, look for this upon release

Food for thought - I am continually struck by the variance in barrel samples due to the oak barrel type in which it is being stored, vineyard the grapes were grown in, and clone type of the particular varietal being used. This may be getting a little geeky, but you can do a very interesting and diverse tasting of one particular wine and the only variation is the forest with which the oak barrels were taken from. Amazing. One thing to keep in mind when barrel tasting is that you are tasting unfinished wine and at best it can give you a feeling of where this wine is going and what it could someday become. Luckily for us (and Kosta Browne) these wines look to be a fantastic group of pleasure driven wines.

Good luck out there and happy tasting!


0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*)- Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**)- A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***)- Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****)- Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****)- An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

The Group Adds One More

March 31, 2010

The wine group that I first got involved with here in Santa Barbara about 5 years ago met at Fresco, our usual spot, to welcome our newest member, 5 week old Riley Grace Zant. We like to start them young... This group, depending on where we are, is known as The JTT (Jimmy Tasting Team), the Fresco group, or Los Borrachos. We are a motley crew of a few old scallywags, their respective better-halves, and a couple young pups to round it all out.

This particular evening was a joyous one about new beginnings and the welcoming of our diminutive new member. As usual the evening was more about enjoying each other's company than anything, but wine is always our motivating force. Here was the lineup:

-Cold Heaven Viognier Voglezang Vineyard 2008*** - Elegant yet rich throughout. Wonderfully enjoyable wine that disappeared from the bottle fairly quickly. Honeysuckle and pear abound.
-Foxen Pinot Noir Julia's Vineyard 2004*** - This wine fooled me a little bit at first. The color was slightly brickish in hue and at my first approach the nose was dull and palate tired. After revisiting this wine about 20 minutes later it was reborn. Quite amazing how a wine can be dumb upon opening and so quickly awaken into something beautiful. The nose had spiced baked cherry, saddle leather, and damp earth. The palate had a revived opulence of fruit and finished with something that touched on the savory side.
-Foxen Pinot Noir Julia's Vineyard 2005*** - The nose was dark with forest floor and bramble berries and the palate showed a great purity of fruit backed up with more of that earthy richness while never being anything less than elegant.
-Three Saints Syrah 2006* - This wine was inky dark, had a nose of espresso like density, and palate of black currants.
-Andrew Murray Syrah Oak Savanna Vineyard 2006** - Plenty of fruit on this wine. Black cherries and some pepper to finish.

Food for thought: There are typically two schools of thought regarding pairing food with wine.
1. Do the research, find traditional matches, and go with common practice.
2. Ignore what others say and simply drink a wine that you like with a food that you like and who really cares if they "go together" or not?

I'd like to offer a third option; open two bottles of wine with your meal and see how each wine plays off of the meal differently. You may get two completely different experiences as your meal progresses. It may be fun and you might actually learn something along the way.

Cheers!


0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*)- Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**)- A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***)- Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****)- Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****)- An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.