Early start for Chris and I; both waking up at 5:45am and attempting to sleep until about 6:30am before eventually both getting up and sneaking out to the lounge for a review of the massive collection on Wine Spectators.
After another great breakfast we are off again, this time to Monforte d’Alba and Poderi Aldo Conterno. Now this is a classy place, looks like an Italian version of a chateau from Bordeaux, perched on the ridge between La Morra and Serralunga d’Alba. We were hosted by Aldo Conterno’s son, Giacomo. He is extremely polite and considerably passionate about his wine and his family’s identity and reputation. As a 5th generation winemaker it is easy to see his strong roots and loyalty to his craft and his terroir. We began by tasting in the cantina. The explanation of the philosophy was both educational and truly engrossing. 5 wines and great conversation kept us busy for over 2 hours before even taking a quick tour of their cellars. ’06 Chardonnay Bussiador**** was rich yet elegant with wonderful fruit, powerful minerality, and mouthwatering acidity. This wine was honestly one of the best chardonnay’s I’ve ever had and could easily age for 10 years. ’06 Barbera d’Alba** had huge acidity that begs for something rich and fatty to eat with it. ’04 Barolo, ’05 Barolo Colonnello**** – great fruit, beautiful nose of roses and classic Barolo purity. ’05 Barolo Romirasco*** was powerful and deep. Something of note is the attention to detail seen here, for example the “seasoning” of the glass before tasting each new wine. The facility was first class and the wines were individually and collectively some of the most impressive I’ve ever experienced. History, place, and purity.
All riding high, we headed up to Alba for lunch at Vicoletto. Before lunch we hit up 3 wine shops to do our purchasing; Le Torre, Grandi Vini, and Fracchia e Berchialla. I picked up a Bruno Giacosa ’01 Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba, Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta, and ’05 Aldo Conterno Bussiador Chardonnay.
La Vicoletto was small, simple, and elegant. Fresh selections of cheeses, meats, and antipasti were available porto via (take out) or for a sit down meal like we did. Chris and Dad got the ravioli di zucchini flower with an insalata mista while I ordered the tajarin w/ a rabbit ragu and fantasia di verdure. We had a Bruno Giacosa Arneis** to pair.
After lunch we continued up to Barbaresco to visit Moccagatta. Beautiful location at the top of their Bric Balin vineyard. Both Sergio Minuto and his daughter hosted us but she did the talking because she is the only person in the family who speaks English. Very nice people and after a short tour we sat in the cantina to taste. ’07 Chardonnay** saw no oak and was bright, fresh, and simple. ‘07 Chardonnay Buschet** was rich, oaky, and much more complex. ’07 Dolcetto** and ’07 Barbera d’Alba** both showed nice ripe fruit. ’06 Barbaresco Basarin** and ’06 Barbaresco Bric Balin*** were both quite young but showing promise with particular interest and favor towards the Bric Balin. After some discussion about our dinner last night and our affection for the wines, Sergio brought a ’90 Barbaresco Bric Balin that was unfortunately oxidized. But he tried again with the ’90 Barbaresco Le Cote****. Wow! Still so fresh but showing wonderful maturity and so many secondary flavors and aromas. Special, special wine. Even more amazing than the wine was the generosity that Sergio displayed without a second thought. Yet another great visit.Back to Alba to finalize a purchase for Chris and Dad and a little price discussion leaving both of them quite pleased with themselves and their purchases. We then head back to Einaudi to relax a bit and enjoy a little repose.
Dinner tonight was in Dogliani, Il Verso del Ghiottone, a recommendation from Elvira here at Einaudi. It being so close to our home base was a welcomed change. Unassuming from the outside with a very nice interior, lush courtyard, and inventive twist on classic Piedmontese cuisine. Chris and I started with rabbit ravioli with shaved black truffle in a light broth. Dad started with a very innovative crème di asparagi e anchovy with a buffalo mozzarella froth and suppli and lightly fried asparagi for dipping. For secondi Chris had a roasted piglet cheek over a potato gratin, Dad had veal prepared 3 ways, and I had a misto fritto of rabbit, veggies, buffalo mozzarella, and fruit. Interesting combination of flavors that all worked together. Dolci we shared a parfait of sorts with a pistachio cookie, cherry and strawberries, topped with mascarpone. Luckily we were able to also enjoy a bottle of ’01 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia***. Rose petal, menthol, anise, and dark chocolate on the nose with a rich, earthy, and dark fruit mouth. Great! The waiter offered a complimentary grappa di moscato to send us off right.
0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*) - Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**) - A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***) - Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****) - Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****) - An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!
Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.
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