A big day in the big city

Henry Wine Group Industry Tasting, Beverly Hills Hotel, March 25, 2010

I tagged along with the Jaffurs crew for this tasting down in Los Angeles as a help to the winery, as a wine lover, and as a friend for Cellar Master, Matt Brady's birthday. We gathered at Jaffurs winery for a 9am departure and after collecting the necessary materials, we were on the road. Getting to Los Angeles was the typical thing, smooth sailing with some traffic upon arrival and a couple harrowing moments as Dave Yates maneuvered us along the 405. I helped the guys set things up and then it was time for Mike Trupiano and I to survey the plethora of wines being poured that day in the beautiful ballroom of the Beverly Hills Hotel. After some recon and a perusal of the 2 inch thick spiral bound "guide", I was ready to get this party started.

I decided that I needed to make a concerted effort to create and follow a good plan of attack for this tasting or things could get fairly confused and all blur together for me. After deciding on a focus of Champagne and Piedmont, I began "systematically" tasting through the wines. It was a wonderful opportunity for me to taste several of each wine in succession for my own thirst for knowledge and appreciation. Along with attempting to be disciplined in my wine tasting regional specificity, I (for the most part) followed the rules of decorum and swirled, smelled, sipped, slurped, and spat my wines. There isn't much doubt that if someone drinks that much wine you aren't leaving that room by the end of the day without being carried out. Though, there were a handful of people that apparently tried... By the state of the staff from Duke's Restaurant at the end of the event, they had themselves a "good" time at the tasting.

Below, I have listed the wines that were tasted in the general tasting portion of the event with a few specific tasting notes that I was able to scratch down on my note pad. I only tasted a small portion of all the wines that were being poured, but I think that I did a pretty good job. I was treated to a couple quality B-list celebrity sightings during the event that I can't help but share. First, I saw an animated discussion being had by Tom Arnold in the hotel lobby. Second, while tasting at the Hanzell table I was joined by a bright orange jacket clad Emilio Estevez. I restrained myself, but Night at the Roxbury was running through my head while he and I compared a few notes. The funny coincidence of the day was that at one point I found myself standing next to the young American, Weston Hoard, who hosted and poured wines for us at Paolo Scavino while at the winery, last May. It was a great happenstance and quite enjoyable to see him again. Onto the notes:

FRANCE

Champagne

Canard-Duchene Brut NV** (elegant and fruity)
Canard-Duchene Rose Brut NV** (more full bodied fruit profile)
Canard-Duchene Grande Cuvee Charles IV Brut NV** (more fresh and elegant)
Thienot Brut NV** (green apples and bright acidity)
Thienot Brut Rose NV** (long finish and very dry)
Thienot Brut Millesime 2002*** (lazer beam of acidity with very long finish)
Alain Thienot Grande Cuvee Brut 1999*** (nutty richness juxtaposed with bright citrus)
Henriot Brut Souverain NV** (slightly more complex due to 1/3 reserve wines added)
Henriot Blanc Souverain NV*** (100% Chardonnay and showing great verve)
Henriot Rose NV** (full but not flabby)
Henriot Enchanteleurs 1995*** (aromas of buttery almond brioche and a mouth filling creamy palate)

Burgundy

William Fevre Champs Royaux 2008**
William Fevre Domaine Chablis 2006**
Bouchard Pere & Fils Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007**
Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune du Chateau Blance 2005** (acid anyone?)
Bouchard Pere & Fils Pouilly Fuisee 2006**
Bouchard Pere & Fils Pinot Noir 2007**
Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune du Chateau Rouge 2006**

Alsace

Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Blanc d'Alsace 2007** (young, smokey, slightly simple)

RHONE

Domaine La Barroche Chateauneuf-du-Pape Signature 2007** (fruit forward and modern)

ITALY

Piedmont

Produttori del Barbaresco Nebbiolo 2008**
Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco 2006*** (soft, rose, elegant)
Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva 2005** (slightly more tannic and youthful)
Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Moccagatta Riserva 2005*** (elegant and beautiful)
Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Pora Riserva 2005** (starting to hint towards menthol)
Damilano Barolo Lecinquevigne 2004** (most balanced of the Damilano's)
Damilano Barolo Liste 2004** (muscular)
Damilano Barolo Cannubi 2004** (pretty nose but tannins still a little harsh)
Aldo Conterno Dolcetto 2007** (easy and tasty)
Aldo Conterno Nebbiolo Il Favot 2005** (approchable and pretty)
Aldo Conterno Barolo 2004*** (great mouth feel, really nice to check in on this wine)
La Spinetta Nebbiolo 2007**
La Spinetta Barolo Campe 2004***
Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1998*** (great, elegant, rich)
Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1982*** (amazingly still a little tight, but really interesting, cool wine)
Paolo Scavino Langhe Bianco DOC 2008** (bright acidity as the Sauvignon Blanc in the blend really shines through)
Paolo Scavino Rosso Vino da Tavola 2007** (kind of their take on a “Super-Piedmontese”)
Paolo Scavino Dolcetto d’Alba DOC 2008** (nice fruit)
Paolo Scavino Barolo DOCG 2005*** (purity and length in the palate)
Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric 2005****(wow, this is going to be special wine)

UMBRIA

Colpetrone Sagrantino Montefalco 2004** (nose of roasted wild boar, supple tannins with black fruits)

CALIFORNIA

Calera Mt. Harlan Chardonnay 2008**
Calera Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2009** (rich up front but a nice dry finish)
Calera Central Coast Pinot Noir 2007**
Calera Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006*** (I am glad that I got a couple bottles of this wine when visiting the winery. Dark aromas and flavors that beg for some age to unwind)
Calera Mt. Harlan Reed Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006**
Calera Mt. Harlan Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir 2001*** (showing beautifully)
Hanzell Estate Chardonnay 2007***(layered, complex, begs for age but easy to like now)
Hanzell Estate Pinot Noir 2006** (the fruit is there but the spice and meaty undertones give this one it’s interest)

SPAIN

Muga Reserva 2005*

NEW ZEALAND

Seresin Sauvignon Blanc Estate 2008** (vibrant, gooseberry, explosive palate)
Seresin Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2008** (more subtle)
Seresin Momo Pinot Noir 2008**

PIEDMONT COMMUNES PRODUCERS PANEL

This was truly a special event for me to be able to attend. If my love for this region of the world has not been made clear yet, it will very soon and quite often. After my most recent visit to this area back in May of 2009 (I will be posting my travel journal as part of my "turn back the clock" portion of this blog) the Langhe was vaulted to the top of my list of favorite destinations anywhere in the world. Traveling through this remarkably scenic region of Northwestern Italy one is struck with beauty coming from the food, wine, topographic and geographic conditions, and the wonderful people that call this place home.

This particular tasting, notes included below, was a great opportunity to both listen to multiple producers expound on their passion for place and particular creations and the enjoyment of these wines all side by side. I especially enjoyed hearing the words spoken by the enthusiastic Giorgio Rivetti of La Spinetta. Just listening to him talk about Piedmont and his wines took me right back to my time there and how special that trip really was. The other panelist that I very much enjoyed listening to was Elisa Scavino, the grand-daughter of Paolo. She spoke of family and purity of flavor as it pertained to the wines made by her family's winery.

La Spinetta Barbera d'Asti "Ca di Pian" 2006** - black raspberries and easy to like. I want some grilled meat to eat with this one.
La Spinetta Barolo Campe 2004*** - from the town of Grinzane Cavour. Soft plums, rich and elegant.
Produttori Del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Pora 2004** - bigger than the 2005 and darker
Produttori Del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Pora 2005** - cherry and brighter than 2004
Paolo Scavino Barolo 2005*** - easy to like with plum on the palate
Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 2005*** - anise, powerful but with finesse, menthol.

After the event, we collected our things and got back on the road to head home. Due to the lack of any food of substance, we made a quick pit stop for burgers at In & Out. Getting back into Santa Barbara we decided to go out for Matt's birthday at Petit Valentien for a nice dinner celebration. The foursome was joined by Matt's girlfriend and Dave's family. I kept it fairly light with two small plates. I started with a simple yet delicious bowl full of steamed New Zealand Green Lipped mussels in a garlic and herb broth, that I couldn't get enough bread to soak up. Second I had the crostini with fresh mushrooms that was savory and earthy. But, we did have several nice bottles of wine to enjoy:

Champagne Agrapart NV* (a touch too much dosage for my taste)
Jaffurs Roussanne 2000** (nice initially but faded away quickly)
Vietti Barbera d'Alba Tre Vigne 2005*** (nice fruit with wonderful acidity that helped make this wine an amazing match to every dish on the table, amazing)
Jaffurs Stolpman Vineyard Syrah 2001** (powerful and extracted, still)
Sami-Odi Shiraz 2006** (huge but not out of balance, luscious mouth of fruit)

Food for thought:
-Bric del Fiasc means "heal of the flask" named because of the flask of wine that was necessary to take along to work the vineyard, due to it's difficulty of terrain.
-Bric/Bricco means the peak of the hill.
-Sori means the sunny side of the Bricco
-With changing weather patterns, the peak of the white truffle season in Piedmont has shifted from early October to November through early December.
-Just one more note on the Vietti Barbera d'Alba from dinner. I am repeatedly impressed and surprised by the Barbera grape, it truly can go with just about any type of food. It was equally good with my steamed mussels at it was with Mike's steak.

Cheers!


0 Stars - No rating
1 Star (*)- Not of significant quality or interest
2 Stars (**)- A notable wine of legitimate interest
3 Stars (***)- Great wine that is worth searching out
4 Stars (****)- Fantastic wine that should not be missed
5 Stars (*****)- An absolutely mind-bending wine - beg, borrow, or steal to get your hands on some of this amazing juice!

Disclaimer: This rating is based on my palate and at the given time when tasted and may differ from yours. Also, I may catch a bottle in a dumb phase or it just may not speak to me at that particular time.